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Scuba Forum / Scuba Locations / July 2004

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Need Help Choosing a South Pacific Dive location

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John Wells - 29 Jun 2004 10:29 GMT
Hello,

I have some time off and am considering going diving in the S.
Pacific.

Here are the locations that are available to me due to airline
requirements:
Tonga
Norfolk Isl
New Caledonia
Fiji
Tonga
Cook Islands
Rarotonga
Apia (not sure where that is)

I might be able toget to Vanuatu also.. but not sure.

Im an advanced diver with about 50 dives under my belt. Ive basically
just done Oz, Thailand, Florida and Brazil. Nothing major in the
Carribean, but since Im over here on this side of the world, Id like
to check out the S. Pacific. Im not sure if these places are better
seen on a live aboard, or since im on the island anyway, I can just do
day dives. Im not looking to spend thousands on accomodation, just
have some good diving and maybe feel like I really enjoyed what I saw
and the time I spent there.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I already booked temporarily a flight to Tonga, but after reading some
of the posts about Tonga, Im inclined to change it to one of the other
destinations.

Ok. Looking forward to any advice

Regards
John
Daniel Kessler - 29 Jun 2004 14:56 GMT
Fiji wins "hands-down" this time of year, in my opinion.  I've made over
13 trips to Fiji over the years.

I made two trips to Tonga.  Va V'au is a pretty place -- fjiords and palm
trees.  The diving is not bad...I would rate it a step down from Fiji
though.  Not as much coral in Va V'au.  Also the infrastructure -- roads,
et al ....are poor and are made of ground coral....so all of the taxi
drivers have hacking coughs.  I felt very sorry for them...clouds of fine
coral cust.  The country is rather run down.

New Caledonia....I've been there twice.  The place is wrecked with all of
the strife they've had there ....French colonial masters vs. the
indigenous Melanesian population.  There's some good diving at the Ille
des Pins, a pretty destination with talcom-lie powder sand.  Again, we're
talking about a French island group -- I don't think serious divers go to
Nouvelle Caldeonia and very few Aussies or Kiwis go there even though
efforts have been made to sell the islands to tourists from Australia and
NZ.  I like the French, but some think they are rather "frosty" to
outsiders and the native people (melanesians) look very angry because
their hopes for independence have been thwarted.  And there's that big
nickel mine there.

Vanuatu....land of coral and ashes......(ashes from active
volcanoes--after all this is the subduction zone and seizmically active)
I've been there 5/6 times.  Not much of interest to dive beyond "Santo"
and the famous wreck of the US luxury liner.   Efforts have been made to
sell charter diving there but don't seem to get anywhere.  Natives are not
too friendly.

Appia...that's the country of Westsern Samoa....forget about it.  No reefs
there.    Interesting island where Robert Louis Stevenson is burried and
the movie "Return to Paradise" was filmed there many  years ago.  Aggie
Grey was near 90 when I stayed at her famous inn (Appia) and she appeared
and threw a lei around my neck as I was greeted upon arrival-- she was
reportedly the original "Bloody Mary."  I felt that I had been covered
with glory.  She's dead now.

Norfolk Island -- that is relatively cold water...a former penal colony of
a thousand horrors and the home of that odd looking pine.  I've never been
there but curious about it (half way bet'n Australia and NZ).  Probably
not many flights there ...so you would be stuck for several days before
you could get out.

Roratonga...some report the diving to be poor.  No dive charter diving
groups ever go there.  That must say something.  Roratonga and Aituti-taki
or whatever it is called are structly for NZ tourists and scuba diving of
any consequence is low anyone's horizon.

in your list, you neglected the Solomons.  Uepi might be a good place for
you to visit.  Just walk right out by the main dock and jump in (a pass in
the reef makes this a wonderful sight and no need for boat transport).
Also, Ghizo might be a good place to finish off your trip.  Some good
diving there.  The hotel in Ghizo has A/C but Uepi does not, but there is
a breeze -- most of the time.

You also missed mention of PNG.  Max Benjamin's place on New Brittain had
good diving with many beautiful corals, elephants ear and a lot of exotic
things you wouldn't see anywhere else. Max has some beautiful diving up
there that is not boat charter based.   I don't any of his cabins have
A/C.

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> Regards
> John
Jason - 29 Jun 2004 20:46 GMT

> Vanuatu....land of coral and ashes......(ashes from active
> volcanoes--after all this is the subduction zone and seizmically active)
> I've been there 5/6 times.  Not much of interest to dive beyond "Santo"
> and the famous wreck of the US luxury liner.   Efforts have been made to
> sell charter diving there but don't seem to get anywhere.  Natives are not
> too friendly.

I have to disagree. Vanuatu is one of the friendliest places I've ever
been. Everyone says hello to you as you pass them in the streets.

Not sure the President Coolidge is a good idea for someone with 50 dives
though.

Jason
Signature

http://www.scuba-addict.co.uk/ for Australian trip reports including
New South Wales, Queensland, Victoria and Western Australia

Daniel Kessler - 30 Jun 2004 14:04 GMT
I would say that the natives are extremely shy to the point of unfriendliness.
You've only made one trip there, right?  As I say, I've made 5/6 including
visits to other islands in that group as well, including the one with the Yasur
volcano (can't recall the name of it right now).   Climbing up on the side of
that thing (active volcano) with fumeroles and sulphur in the air and seeing the
magma down at the bottom was rather frightening.

> > Vanuatu....land of coral and ashes......(ashes from active
> > volcanoes--after all this is the subduction zone and seizmically active)
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> http://www.scuba-addict.co.uk/ for Australian trip reports including
> New South Wales, Queensland, Victoria and Western Australia
John Wells - 30 Jun 2004 01:25 GMT
I forgot to mention that Tahiti is a possibility.

Im only limited because I have to fly with Air NZ. They dont fly to
the Solomons I think. I believe you have only Solomon air, but I could
be wrong.

So sounds like your overall recommendation would be Fiji.

What else is there to do there? Is it sort of like Cancun or some
resort type city or are there locals who live there too.

Thanks
John

> Fiji wins "hands-down" this time of year, in my opinion.  I've made over
> 13 trips to Fiji over the years.
[quoted text clipped - 94 lines]
> > Regards
> > John
davis AZ - 29 Jun 2004 21:56 GMT
John,

Fiji is a prime Dive destination with color and culture.  There are
variety of islands to choose from.
PNG and Solomons come close second but more virigin reefs and Malaria
is definitely a problem there.
If you interested in some high drift diving along the channels then
head to Tahiti (Manihi, Tikahoe, Fakarava are very good).
Don't waste your time in Carribean as they are very weak when compared
to the above.

Davis

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> Regards
> John
BrianM - 30 Jun 2004 02:14 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> Regards
> John

Hi John.
Apia is the capital of Western Samoa.
Rarotonga is the main island of the Cooks.
My personal pick would be Fiji for the corals.
http://www.fijidive.com/
Second choice would be Rarotonga because it is
such a beautiful place. There are some wrecks dives,
and accommodation is plentiful and cheap.
http://www.thedivecentre-rarotonga.com/

hth
Brian
Trouser - 30 Jun 2004 12:50 GMT
> Hi John.
> Apia is the capital of Western Samoa.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> hth
> Brian
HI Brian,

I guess like most opinions YMMV, but as a dive destination.  It obviously
depends on what your main priority is.  If it is mainly diving, I would not
return to Raro is a dive 'destination'.  I would go back for a holiday and
do a few dives, but not go bezerk diving there.

I spent my honeymoon there in April.  I am  kiwi - Have only dived Most of
New Zealand (Temperate stuff poor knights, Coromandel, Fiordland, Stewart
Island etc) Malaysia (tioman), and Rarotonga but would not recommend Raro
in terms of Diving.  Great Honeymoon destination,culture and cruisy
lifestyle, pretty lagoon etc [you can feel the blood pressure dropping when
you wake up on the first morning].  But would suggest the Diving is far
from being in the top destinations for diving only (but still well worth
getting in the 26-29deg water!).  Send email for some pics of the diving
there if you like

John if you do go there, I dived with both Pacific Divers and Cook Island
Divers and found Cook Island Divers the better operation (albeit more
expensive) as the sites were not the same as the other operators and the
boats more comfy.

From other Divers I have talked to about diving in the south Pacific, Fiji,
PNG, Samoa in that order.  I know it is not on your list but..... My
personal hankering is for the Solomoms (by liveaboard). If all you want to
do is dive that is... Safety has been an issue - but as far as I know not
at them moment.

Again YMMV
Cheers
Troy
chilly - 30 Jun 2004 15:52 GMT
(snip)>
> John if you do go there, I dived with both Pacific Divers and Cook Island
> Divers and found Cook Island Divers the better operation (albeit more
> expensive) as the sites were not the same as the other operators and the
> boats more comfy.

This surprises me.  Unless Cook Island Divers has changed their policy, they
only did one tank in the morning and one tank in the afternoon, most
inconvenient.  Any divers that wanted a two-tank am dive, were out of luck.
Whereas Pacific Divers had two-tanks available, both in the morning and
again in the afternoon.  Pacific Divers was a smaller shop than Cook Island,
and so a bit more homey, but I certainly wouldn't hve said that Cook Island
Divers were a better operation.  Bigger does not always mean better.  And
there ya go, more expensive and less convenience as to when you want to
dive.  At a location like the Raro, a two tank in the am, gives you all
afternoon, to hike, sunbathe, sitesee, whatever you want to do to make the
most of the vacation.

While Raro wasn't the best diving I've ever done, it certainly wasn't the
worst either.  Some of the sites weren't all that they could be, especially
over on the west side and the wrecks, I surely could have missed.  But sites
like Sand River and Matavura Wall, were good.  We saw white tips on most
every dive and on many of the dives, there was a plethora of reef fish at
around 30-40', and we hung out at the top of the coral formation with them.
It was very enjoyable.

Raro is a good destination for an all around vacation, that includes some
diving.

(snip)
chilly - 30 Jun 2004 18:08 GMT
> (snip)>
> around 30-40', and we hung out at the top of the coral formation with them.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> (snip)

Another thing I'll add about your remark that Cook Island Divers took you to
better/different dive sites.  This is interesting and I believe merely a
perception on your part.  It is the tide, the wind and the currents that
generally dictates what side of the island the boats launch from for the day
and which sites they may go to.   It was a rare day that Cook Islands boats,
and every other op for that matter, weren't launching from the same launch
area.

I dove almost every day of a 14 day holiday, sometime 4 dives a day.  It
wasn't so bad.  Heck, it was a lot better than Koh Tao, Thailand.  ;^)
Trouser - 30 Jun 2004 21:46 GMT
>> (snip)>
>> around 30-40', and we hung out at the top of the coral formation with
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>>
>> (snip)

I agree with your statement about a good all round destination. As you will
notice my global diving experience is not overly broad, I just felt it was
good diving, nothing stunning (apart from the wicked Vis!).

> Another thing I'll add about your remark that Cook Island Divers took you
> to
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> boats, and every other op for that matter, weren't launching from the same
> launch area.

My 'perception'- about the number dives per day and where we dived: Cook Is
do 2 in AM one PM.   I dived with them twice in the afternoon [as it fit in
with my honeymooning schedule :) ]. Once it was just me and the DM, we
dived one side of island (west side I think), [half a dozen coral bommies]
to 28 metres and were only limited by the air in my tank (times were
limited with Pacific - sometimes to 45mins, so that they could back to dock
and have enough surface interval/no deco time b/w morning and afternoon
trips).  That afternoon I never saw another operator, and talked to other
divers who were on the other side of the island with other operators doing
the dives below (sand river etc).  

I dived the [very broken up] wrecks, sand river[no sharks spotted:)],
paradise the one at the end of the airport runway, (Ngatangiia? and/or
Black rock?) with pacific Divers (eight dives in total).  I in fact took
your recommendation on this group about who to dive with and was mostly  
happy at first with Pacific while I dealt with Thomas their son (who was/is
running the show as Graham his father was back in NZ, apparently quite Ill
:(.)

Another aspect that was frustrating with Pacific was that after talking to
Christina, who after telling me they do 2 times 2 dives per day started not
doing afternoon dives [not for weather] because she was doing lagoon
training dives.  They showed (to me) a lack of hands on deck and therefore
the ability to live up to the expectation of 2 in the am two in the PM,
which I agree is more flexible for most divers.  

I feel rude and am honestly not somebody to complain much, but whilst
Christina warrants special mention.  Whilst she makes the cookies and
baking that blow your mind during surface intervals, her customer service
skills are somewhat lacking.  When I am diving I don't expect the people
taking us diving to be so short and abrupt to the point of rudeness.  I
watched plenty of people arrive at the shop and enquire about diving and
based on her response walk away with screwed up faces.  

Based on your experience Chilly the above was obviously not 'standard' but
warrants mention all the same.  I will read trip reports I just think that
peoples' experiences can (and do) differ for one reason or another.
chilly - 01 Jul 2004 01:16 GMT
> happy at first with Pacific while I dealt with Thomas their son (who was/is
> running the show as Graham his father was back in NZ, apparently quite Ill
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> the ability to live up to the expectation of 2 in the am two in the PM,
> which I agree is more flexible for most divers.

That is indeed unfortunate.

>  I feel rude and am honestly not somebody to complain much, but whilst
> Christina warrants special mention.  Whilst she makes the cookies and
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> watched plenty of people arrive at the shop and enquire about diving and
> based on her response walk away with screwed up faces.

In fairness, I must acknowledge that Christina can be abrupt from time to
time.  However, at these current times, I'm sure that it has been
exacerbated by the current situation and her worries over Graham.

> Based on your experience Chilly the above was obviously not 'standard' but
> warrants mention all the same.  I will read trip reports I just think that
> peoples' experiences can (and do) differ for one reason or another.

True enough.  And in accordance, Greg at Cook Islands warrants the same kind
of special mention.  He was exceedingly rude as well and sent me away with a
screwed up face.  :^)
Trouser - 01 Jul 2004 10:44 GMT
> In fairness, I must acknowledge that Christina can be abrupt from time to
> time.  However, at these current times, I'm sure that it has been
> exacerbated by the current situation and her worries over Graham.

No doubt - not good for business though. I got to know Thomas quite well and
he was friendly and helpful.  He even did help me out by replacing an HP
O-ring that decided to give way.

>> Based on your experience Chilly the above was obviously not 'standard'
>> but
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> a
> screwed up face.  :^)

Hey, Greg did the same to me early on in my stay (I burned around there one
morning on the scooter when the bride was in bed crook after island night -
hoping to get on a dive in the PM (after Christina had cancelled an
afternoon dive to do the lagoon thing) and enquired as to costs etc.

I was not happy when he said that with your own gear it was 70$, without
gear 70$ per dive.  After a brief exchange of sorry but that is policy - we
cost more, ranted about the other operators be cut price and low quality I
walked away with the :V( face on, and sitting around with the bride
frustrated at not diving.  

I ONLY dived with Cook Is another day as a last resort (when losing out
again on Pacific PM dives).  MY experience was better than the other dives
I had done there with Pacific.  Great boats (better ride, more room, could
stand up while under way, (unlike pacific) Only boat at the dive site, less
restricted dive time, oh did I mention the free homebrewed beer afterwards?  
Greg turned out to be quite a likeable guy (maybe that was just the
beer?:).  I know what My choice would be next time. I would be prepared to
pay the premium now for a better (be it perceived or actual) experience....
chilly - 01 Jul 2004 15:24 GMT
> > In fairness, I must acknowledge that Christina can be abrupt from time to
> > time.  However, at these current times, I'm sure that it has been
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> he was friendly and helpful.  He even did help me out by replacing an HP
> O-ring that decided to give way.

I've only spoken with Thomas over the phone, but not actually met him.  As I
understand it, he is good guy and I'm willing to assume that he has  a sense
of humor like that of his parents.  Not that you got to see Christina's,
apparently and of course, Graham wasn't there for you to see his.

> >> Based on your experience Chilly the above was obviously not 'standard'
> > a
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> walked away with the :V( face on, and sitting around with the bride
> frustrated at not diving.

I can't even remember what my specific conversation with him was about.  I
just remember that I couldn't have been more surprised that he was that much
of an a.shole.  He did not know that I was diving with anyone else, so it
wasn't that.  Like you I'd gone by intentionally to check out the shop, the
boats, the schedule but I was also looking to purchase a particular reef
fish guide.  I never mentioned diving with anyone else.  He was beyond rude.
I just thought him a plain nasty a.shole.

> I ONLY dived with Cook Is another day as a last resort (when losing out
> again on Pacific PM dives).  MY experience was better than the other dives
> I had done there with Pacific.  Great boats (better ride, more room, could
> stand up while under way, (unlike pacific)

I certainly can't argue with what you say about their boats.  However, in
the defense of Pacific in this regard, Cook Islands was (at that time) the
only op with those kinds of boats.  Everyone else was using the boats that
were the same as Pacific's.  I did dive with one other operator my first
day. They had the same boats as Pacific, only not in as good a condition as
the Pacific boats.  Further, I was given to understand that the boats used
by most of the ops were like that because they were also the emergency
rescue team for boating accidents in the area.  In other words, those were
the kind of boats that the island needed for quick response.

>Only boat at the dive site,

Intereting.  In every one of my dives with Pacific, we were the only boat at
the dive site.

>less
> restricted dive time, oh did I mention the free homebrewed beer afterwards?

No, you didn't.  I can see that help color your decision. ;^)

> Greg turned out to be quite a likeable guy (maybe that was just the
> beer?:).

Based on my experience with him, that would be my guess.

> I know what My choice would be next time. I would be prepared to
> pay the premium now for a better (be it perceived or actual) experience....

Well, I sure am sorry that your experience with Pacific wasn't as good as
mine was . . .but then the circumstances were different too.  They had two
boats running when I was there and the more junior people were on the other
boat.  Our boat did not have restricted dive times.

I understand that there are one or two new ops on the island.  Maybe they
are good?
John Wells - 01 Jul 2004 13:53 GMT
Well I think I've narrowed it down to Fiji or Maybe Solomons. I also
saw an int eresting article on Truk Island, but not sure if there's
much more to that place that wreck diving. Maybe someone would care to
comment.

My next question is what kind of $$ are we talking for a liveaboard to
the Solomons and for Fiji can I get to all the divesites via local/day
dives or do I need to do a live aboard. It looks like the main Fijian
island is quite large, it might be tough to get everywhere. Also any
suggestions as far  as what city to stay in? Is Suva an attractive
city?

Thanks again guys for all your help.

John
Tack - 02 Jul 2004 09:00 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> Regards
> John

Hi John,
have you considered Papua new guinea?? Amazing diving - We went to Madang
and had a ball! Corals magnificent, Water warm and critters plentiful. Good
viz too! Going back next year.
Trip report on my website
www.DivingTheBlue.com
HTH
Tim
John Wells - 04 Jul 2004 00:51 GMT
Whats the rough price of the PNG package.. Iwas trying to get to
somewhere that I can use airmiles to save $$, but PNG sounds great!

Ian

> > Hello,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> HTH
> Tim
Tack - 04 Jul 2004 02:14 GMT
Ian/john
The png package from Australia cost: AUS$2200 with dive adventures.
This was flights from Sydney -> Moresby -> Madang (return) and accommodation
and diving with the shop. I am afraid I don't have a breakdown of individual
components.
HTH
Tack

> Whats the rough price of the PNG package.. Iwas trying to get to
> somewhere that I can use airmiles to save $$, but PNG sounds great!
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
> > HTH
> > Tim
news - 14 Jul 2004 21:25 GMT
I've been to half the locations on your list and several live-aboards in
the SP.

With only 50 dives, I'd highly suggest doing land-based.  On world class
live-aboards you'd be doing 4 to 5 dives per day, all computer based,
and lots of deep stuff.

I highly recommend Dan Grenier's Crystal Divers.  He has a jet boat that
goes out where the live-aboards go and the diving is great.

Dan can help you find a super deal on Air Fiji to/from the States.

Here is his link http://www.crystaldivers.com

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> Regards
> John
Dan Bracuk - 16 Jul 2004 02:54 GMT
news <news@rideste.org> pounded away at his keyboard resulting in:
:With only 50 dives, I'd highly suggest doing land-based.  On world class
:live-aboards you'd be doing 4 to 5 dives per day, all computer based,
:and lots of deep stuff.

So?

Dan Bracuk
If at first you don't succeed, you run the risk of failure.
The Best of rec.scuba http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/RecScuba/
news - 18 Jul 2004 18:50 GMT
> news <news@rideste.org> pounded away at his keyboard resulting in:
> :With only 50 dives, I'd highly suggest doing land-based.  On world class
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

I would not recommend to a friend that he/she go on any of the world
class liveaboards in the SP with only 50 dives experience.

I had to save a newbie two years ago who ran out of air at 60ft and he
was also in serious deco [40 minutes], because he wasn't paying
attention to his computer.  We had spent considerable time at 100/120 ft
 prior to that.
Dan Bracuk - 18 Jul 2004 22:56 GMT
news <news@rideste.org> pounded away at his keyboard resulting in:
:I would not recommend to a friend that he/she go on any of the world
:class liveaboards in the SP with only 50 dives experience.

I might.  Depends on what you mean by world class and SP.

Dan Bracuk
If at first you don't succeed, you run the risk of failure.
The Best of rec.scuba http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/RecScuba/
Steve - 19 Jul 2004 06:06 GMT
> I would not recommend to a friend that he/she go on any of the world
> class liveaboards in the SP with only 50 dives experience.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> attention to his computer.  We had spent considerable time at 100/120 ft
>  prior to that.

Yeah. Stick to a land based op. Bad things (or stupidity) couldn't possibly happen
that way.

Signature

Steve

The above can be construed as personal opinion in the absence of a reasonable
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