Scuba Forum / Scuba Locations / March 2004
Sipadan
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scubak - 08 Mar 2004 18:34 GMT I'm thinking of going to Sipadan in early April. Does anyone have any advice regarding the following:
- Would like to make sure April is a good time to go. - Thinking of staying at Seaventures, the converted oil rig that Dave Morgan who posts on this site keeps talking about. Anyone else been there and your thoughts? I read somewhere that their scuba diving operations were not the best in regards to safety and dive briefings. Is that true?
Thanks in advance for those that reply!!!
Happy Diving! -Scubak
chilly - 09 Mar 2004 02:19 GMT > I'm thinking of going to Sipadan in early April. Does anyone have any > advice regarding the following: > > - Would like to make sure April is a good time to go. Great time to go.
(snip)
Filip Nowicki - 10 Mar 2004 08:55 GMT > - Would like to make sure April is a good time to go. It's always good time to go :-)
> - Thinking of staying at Seaventures, the converted oil rig that Dave > Morgan who posts on this site keeps talking about. Anyone else been > there and your thoughts? I read somewhere that their scuba diving > operations were not the best in regards to safety and dive briefings. > Is that true? Well, the oil rig is not anchored at SIpadan, but Mabul. There're 3 islands forming a triangle: Sipadan, MAbul , Kapalai (which is actually a reef with a wooden divecentre on top of it).
I've been to all of them, but lived on Sipadan. It is the most beautiful place to stay. A paradise island. MAbul is much bigger, but having not a lot of trees - "bald" I'd say.
Kapalai is just a reef, so you live on a wooden platform.
If you decide to stay on Sipadan, you can make boat dives around two other islands as well. Its 20-40 min by boat (depending on weather). It's worth to go, because there is different reef and life there.
The most breathtaking is Sipadan of course :-)
If you decide to go to S., I'd advice to stay at Sipadan Dive Centre or Borneo Divers - both the oldest and best situated (at the drop off - the only place you make beach dives). They will offer you 3 boat dives per day and unlimited beach dives. You get meal/snack 5 times a day, drinks all the time (all included in a package)
Practically you can make 5-6 dives a day. The best dive-site is Barracuda Point (check it: www.bubblemaker.pl). On the night dive you must go to the entrance of Turtle Cave and see flashing fish. Absolutely No.1 !
I wish you a pleasant trip ;-) Filip
Becky - 21 Mar 2004 05:38 GMT I just came back from Sipadan/Mabul a week ago.
We stayed at Sipadan Water Village (SWV) which is really on the island of Mabul. The Seaventures rig was right off-shore from our hotel. I wouldn't like to stay there because the "shore" dive under the rig has a square profile of 45-55 feet. There's not much to see on the pilings on your way up (although we did find a frogfish halfway up once). On the other hand, the diving at 50 ft was superb! I did 5 dives there over the course of 10 days--great place to take pictures! Frogfish in many colors and sizes, crocodile fish piled on top of each other (really), plenty of nudibranchs, scorpionfish, schools of grunts & coronetfish, cleaner shrimp, old construction debris for things to hide in, and more. If there's a current, you can't "shore" dive because you might have to be picked up downcurrent. You could plan to come up a line (if they have one, which I didn't see, but I stayed at one end of the rig), but would you want to swim back from Sipadan if that didn't work out? This trip, we made several dives there without appreciable current. On our previous trip to SWV, however, there was a ripping current above 20 feet, so we did our safety stop flying through the water away from the rig and our hotel. You definitely couldn't swim to shore from this dive site.
There is no snorkeling on Seaventures, unless you go somewhere by boat. That's a deal breaker for me, because I love to snorkel in between dives.
SWV is a great place to stay. We've been there twice. The shore diving and service are outstanding! Although the rooms don't have air conditioning, they are huge and well appointed and private. The SWV resort is built over a lagoon, so you can walk out on your private porch and look down at the reef. When the tides aren't too low, you can snorkel under your hotel room. It's really neat during the extra low tides at full moon: the coral reef under the resort is partially out of the water. The leathery soft corals close themselves up to keep from drying out. There's another resort on the island that's on land. They seemed to have little AC units on each room. We didn't have trouble with bugs in our cotttage or at the restaurant, and didn't have to use bug spray (in contrast, a woman we met at Sipadan's Drop Off Cafe who was staying on Sipadan was covered in fly and mosquito bites!).
On twilight/night shore dives & snorkels at SWV this trip, I saw: mating mandarinfish; a tiny (1") white octopus on the sand; a 1.5 ft long long-snout pipefish; banded and regular pipefish including pregnant males (I quit counting at 12); robust host pipefish (shaped like a blade of grass); a stargazer; big squid; flounder and sole; painted frogfish; many shrimp; eels; sea snakes; red hairy lobster; sea pens (coral) with tiny crabs and shrimp all over them; box crabs; and more. Slightly annoying things about SWV's night dives: you have to go with a guide and you have to be back by 8 PM (so the emergency boat driver can go home). The cost of guided night dives was included in our package but they usually charge extra.
On day dives on Mabul (at the resort and farther out by boat, we saw sailfin blennys; mushroom coral pipefish; ornate ghost pipefish; pygmy seahorses; regular seahorses; colorful Coleman shrimp on a fire urchin; snake & moray eels; cleaner stations with fish & shrimp cleaning groupers; devilfish (a kind of scorpion fish with claws); lion fish; many types of shrimp gobies; smallish groupers; schools of coronetfish; turtles; lobsters; many parrotfish & wrasse; crinoid shrimp and squat lobsters; and lots more. There were many anemone fish of all types. Clownfish seem to have been renamed in a universal language: Nemo!
On day dives at Sipadan (at least one or two each day), we saw a school of 100 or so bumphead parrotfish, which milled around like sheep while we took many photos; mating green sea turtles (which is a story all of its own); green and hawksbill turtles doing regular turtle stuff; a shark cleaning station with over a dozen white tip reef sharks; schools of jacks; lots of nudibranchs; pygmy seahorses; many types of triggerfish, parrotfish, and wrasse; big heaps of crinoids; and the usual reef fishes & corals.
We also went to nearby Kapalai several times, which is (as other posters have reported) just a sandbar with a hotel on stilts above it. Sort of like SWV without the island... The dives near the hotel were good, but murky. The dives out a ways but still on the island shelf were outstanding, esp. the ones named 2nd Bouy & Don King Yama by the SWV folks. Some of our best dives were here. We saw skeleton shrimp (tiny little amphipods, really); ornate ghost pipefish; several frogfish, 1 inch to 18 inches in length; pygmy seahorses; octopus & cuttlefish; nudibranchs; cleaner shrimp; a map pufferfish let us photograph him up close while he was being cleaned at a shrimp station, and followed us around later in the dive to see what we were up to (which is definitely not normal pufferfish behavior); a small turtle that wanted to play with everyone; wire coral shrimp & crabs; leaf scorpionfish in several colors; and lots of other cool stuff.
The weather was good the whole time (10 days). As I recall, it rained twice (once really hard) at night; once for a little while in the afternoon; and was warm and partly cloudy the rest of the time. The wind was calm for 2 days (we had flat water, which was great) and breezy most of the rest of the time (made the water a bit choppy, but not too bad). The last afternoon we were there, an extra low tide at noon combined with some strong winds (which made it pleasantly cool during the day) to produce 4 ft surge. They couldn't tie the boats up at the dock to leave for the afternoon dive, so they swam the gear and divers out to the boat. That was exciting to watch, but I was glad I wasn't diving, that's for sure. On the leeward side of the island (we walked over there), the water was low, but calm and flat for the dives. The swells were smaller when they came back from the dive, so they could dock. Alex, who's worked at the dive operation and resort for years, said that it was the roughest water he'd ever seen at the resort.
The dive briefings were good. They have a great permanent map of the shore dives from the resort and draw pictures of the reef for others. Our group of 13 was all photographers, and our guides usually did a good job of showing everyone things, although a couple of times the laggards got to hunt critters for themselves if they didn't keep up on a drift. If you told the guide you were going to follow, he or she waited for you. If you asked to see a particular creature, they tried to find it for you. The guides all seem to have a network of critter sightings, so they can usually find things. The only two things I wanted to see that no one saw were the flamboyant cuttlefish and blue-ringed octopus (they said a blue ring had been seen by snorkelers under the dive shop a couple of weeks before we came, but I didn't find one). Most of the guides had underwater etch-a-sketch devices they used to write down what they were showing you.
You can do as many shore dives as you want between 6 am and dark; the only rule is that you have to have a 1 hour surface interval before a boat dive (and, of course, the night dive rule I mentioned earlier). I understand that the 1 hour rule is enforced, although I didn't see it happen (but neither did I try to do a boat dives soon after a shore dive). There are dive shop folks around all the time to answer questions and help you with your gear. If you're taking a self-guided shore dive during the day, you write your dive number on a board and then mark off when you return, so they know if they need to come look for you if you don't return. If you forget to mark yourself off, they hunt around the resort for you before sending out the search parties. I've never seen them fail to find the "lost" diver on shore, so I don't know what their search efforts are like.
SWV has the best shore diving arrangement I've ever seen. Each diver has a lockable gear locker, a fat hanger for your wetsuit, and a place to hang your BC & regulator. The tanks are 5-10 feet from where you assemble your gear; which is maybe another 10 feet from the end of the dock you dive from. If you want help hauling your gear that distance, it was easy to get (except one time, I confess, when everyone seemed to be on siesta at 3:30 PM). When the water gets choppy or the surge is up (or you just look like you need help), they come out onto the dock to help you out of the water and take your gear up. The dock has multiple levels, to accomodate the various tide levels. For boat dives, they take your BC & reg and hook it up on the boat. You carry your other stuff (they'll help) to the boat. They bring everything back after the dive.
The boats don't have a camera platform or camera tank, so you end up holding your camera or placing it on the deck during the short trips to the dive sites. We put ourour cameras on the deck of the boat and didn't have any trouble13, although I admit that we didn't have any strangers on our boats--there were exactly 2 boats' worth of divers in our group, so we were on boats by ourselves. On Mabul & Kapalai dives, you go back to the resort for your surface interval. On the 2-tank dives at Sipadan, we went to the Drop Off Cafe for our surface interval. They had a fresh water hose at the cafe to rinse off cameras and tables where you can work on your camera between dives. Back at the resort, there were several tanks just for cameras, plus many more for BCs and other dive gear.
They provided snacks between dives. Snacks were usually baked goods (one day we had mayonnaise sandwiches on really good home baked bread. That was a little weird, but tasty!), but sometimes fried bananas or meat pies. There was always cold water to be had, plus coffee, tea, and hot chocolate (well, you make it yourself with Milo cocoa powder, creamer, sugar, and hot water). On surface intervals at Sipadan, they brought food and the Drop Off Cafe provided the coffee, tea, and cocoa. I had an excellent snorkel one day with a huge school of jacks at the drop off and under the cafe pier.
If you're looking for a travel agent that understands divers and does a great job with exotic trips, including Sipadan/Mabul/Kapalai, try Vickie Coker at Travel Masters (http://www.travel-masters.net/). Travel Masters is in Austin, Texas, but they plans trips for people all over. You can get e-mail address and a toll-free number on the web site. Vickie has personally been to Sipadan & Mabul many times and knows the people and ropes. I don't work there and I don't get anything if you contact them. I just book trips with them, travel in some of their group trips, and buy gear at their dive store, Scubaland Adventures (http://www.scubaland.com/).
Enjoy your trip!
> I'm thinking of going to Sipadan in early April. Does anyone have any > advice regarding the following: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Happy Diving! > -Scubak Brown Cow - 21 Mar 2004 14:13 GMT Wow Becky,
You saw pygmy seahorses there??? I was looking and looking and all the divemasters there were under so much pressure to find one.
One consolation, I saw the flamboyant cuttlefish hahhahha...it's at the Kapalai house reef.....Magnificent!
Well, I went SWV in Oct03 and after reading what you wrote, it really made me miss it even more. I had a great time there too and saw most of the creatures you mentioned down there plus a large school of false orcas trailing our boats on the way bak to SWV after a Sipadan dive.
Had Jimmy as my night guide and he is darn good in spotting all the hidden/camouflage creatures.
Could you tell me where (dive location at least) you found those pygmy sea-horses? I know there is an element of luck involved but would certainly like to try finding them again should I return to SWV this year.
How Now? BrownCow.
> I just came back from Sipadan/Mabul a week ago. > [quoted text clipped - 179 lines] > > Happy Diving! > > -Scubak Becky - 26 Mar 2004 07:32 GMT My log records that I saw pygmy sea horses on Mabul at New Lobster Cave (two different fans on two different dives). Other divers in our group saw them in red and orange, but I only saw red ones. I know we saw them at Sipadan and at other sites on Mabul as well, but I didn't write them down. (Is it possible that I've seen too many pygmies? Say it's not so!) I'm fairly certain from after-dive chatter that there are some at the house reef at Sipadan Water Village on Mabul, at a deeper site right offshore from the first "corner" of the cottages. If I can get more info out of the other folks on the trip, I'll post.
The dive masters took us to several sites on Mabul & Sipadan that were reputed to have pygmies, but you have to keep somewhat up with the group to see them... I never found any pygmies by myself (not for want of trying). They were always pointed out by the dive masters. How they can find something that small on the huge sea fans there is beyond me. We tended to keep to shallower sites on our trips to Kapalai, so I don't think anyone saw pygmies there. I think all the pygmies I've seen have been below 75 fsw.
My logging was disrupted this trip because I was attending a photo workshop/contest. I spent much of my "dry" time examining digital images (mine & other people's) and attending workshops, instead of looking up fish and writing down logs. Alas, none of my photos of the pygmies turned out. I was using a little point & shoot Ricoh digital in a plastic housing that provided by the contest organizers. I couldn't get the autofocus to focus on something that small if it (and I) wasn't absolutely stationary. The pygmies are pretty wiggly for a half centimeter-long sedentary fish, so the camera kept focusing on the sea fan instead of the fish (which could have resulted in nice photos except for the pygmy butts and out of focus pygmy noses in all the shots :-)
About the contest: I went to accompany my husband, who's the fish photographer in our family. I'd never taken underwater pictures before, and don't do much photography above water either. The photo pros (Jim Watt, David Fleetham) and the equipment guru (Joe Wysocki from Optiquatics) took that as a challenge and set about to make an UW photographer out of me. I didn't win anything in the contest, but I got some decent pictures and know a little about what I should be doing if I ever try it again. Important things I learned: * Turtles mate while swimming as fast as I can snorkel at top speed (well, that's not a photo lesson, but an interesting fact nonetheless) * Shutter lag is a pain (it's worth paying big bucks for shorter shutter lag) * Always put a moisture muncher (desiccant package) inside a plastic housing (they fog) * Pay attention to the background * Shoot up, against blue water if possible * In a contest, always test view your images on the exact computer or projector where they will judge. * Film is dead (sell your film cameras now, before the rest of the world catches on)
Everyone on the trip except my husband, including both photo pros, shot digital. You can get some killer pictures with a digital camera; maybe not with the little point & shoot one that I had, but with digital SLR cameras with high resolution and a good view finder. Add to great picture quality that you never having to worry about running out of film, and it's unbeatable. The immediate feedback is nice too.
If you want to see the results of the contest, check it out at http://www.travel-masters.net/Photo%20Week.htm. My husband's first attempt with the digital point & shoot netted him the clown fish wearing its anemone like an Eskimo parka. Best in Show was the wide-angle winner (wall with diver), which was an absolutely stunning picture when viewed online or projected on the wall. Don't know why it's not as stunning on the web site.
> Wow Becky, > > You saw pygmy seahorses there??? I was looking and looking and all the > divemasters there were under so much pressure to find one. <snip>
Could you tell me where (dive location at least) you found those pygmy
> sea-horses? I know there is an element of luck involved but would certainly > like to try finding them again should I return to SWV this year. > > How Now? > BrownCow. Brian Allen - 26 Mar 2004 09:33 GMT Hello,
What is the best time of the year to go? You mentioned that the weather was good, but that there was a strong surge. Is that normal for this time of year?
Thanks, Brian
> I just came back from Sipadan/Mabul a week ago. > [quoted text clipped - 179 lines] > > Happy Diving! > > -Scubak chilly - 26 Mar 2004 10:16 GMT > Hello, > > What is the best time of the year to go? It is my understanding that the best time of year to go is April/May.
>You mentioned that the weather was > good, but that there was a strong surge. Is that normal for this time of > year? I'll tell you when I get back in mid-May.
In the meantime, Becky?
> Thanks, > Brian [quoted text clipped - 233 lines] > > > Happy Diving! > > > -Scubak Becky - 27 Mar 2004 19:10 GMT The reason for the big surge this trip was a combination of a lower than average tide for (for the full moon at the beginning of spring) and a stiff breeze aimed directly at the shore. The other side of the island had flat water. The other 9 days of our trip were relatively calm. The photo pros from our workshop were there the week before, and they reported that it was even calmer before we got there. Our visit was 2/27-3/9.
The only other time I was in Borneo was in June several years ago. That visit also coincided with a full moon, so we got a dramatic tide and a little surge, but nothing dramatic. The weather was nice then, too, except for one day when wind & rain delayed the afternoon dive by 2 hours. We just sat in the big expanse of picnic tables under the roof at the dive shop, drinking Milo & eating snacks while watching the rain.
Becky
> Hello, > > What is the best time of the year to go? You mentioned that the weather was > good, but that there was a strong surge. Is that normal for this time of > year? scubak - 28 Mar 2004 06:31 GMT Thanks so much for the trip report, Becky. Loved that it was so comprehensive. Unfortunately I didn't notice it (don't ask me why) until now, and I already booked. I booked through borneodives.com to stay at the Kapalai Water Village for 7 nights (right now they have an offer that gives you the 7th night free if you book 6 nights). I'm leaving from NYC and the total cost for the trip is ending up to around $2000 which I think is pretty good. Will try to put up a trip report when I come back!
Happy diving everyone! -nyscubacat
Becky - 28 Mar 2004 08:10 GMT Wow, that's a great deal! Have a great trip! Make sure you get out to the 2nd Buoy and Don King Yama dive sites offshore on Kapalai. They were excellent!
> Thanks so much for the trip report, Becky. Loved that it was so > comprehensive. Unfortunately I didn't notice it (don't ask me why) [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Happy diving everyone! > -nyscubacat
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