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Scuba Forum / Scuba Locations / January 2005Diving in the Queen Charlotte Islands
I am going Sea kayaking in the Queen Charlottes this summer for a month or so. I plan on taking a Henderson semidry suit and snorkel gear. I am thinking about getting a re-breather. I have been told that I can possibly get 10-12 hours out of it which would justify taking it if the diving is worth it. So is the diving in the Queens worth the weight and expense of taking a re-breather? Also does anyone have any experience with a Henderson semi dry suit in cold apx. 45 degree water? Yeah, I know a dry suit is a better choice but the wet suit works better for paddling (half on). Any suggestions would be appreciated. I spent three weeks kayaking around the Queen's, and although I did not dive (we didn't find anywhere to get fills on the islands, and tanks are very expensive to move via seaplane) I did a fair amount of snorkelling and freediving. My only regret from that trip is that I didn't find a way to get some tanks up there. If you've ever dived on the Sunshine coast or Vancouver island then you have a pretty good idea of what you'll see - lots of anemones, sea fans, seals, sea lions, octopi, lingcod, rockfish, nudibrancs, salmon (if you get there during the run), crabs, etc - and that's what we found snorkelling! We spent all of our time within the national park, and you could tell that you were in protected waters. The numbers, and density, of everything I saw was much higher then what I was used to in the Victoria/Sunshine coast area. Vis was decent (10m-ish), but we were there in late August/early September, so if you go earlier in the year it may be a lot worse. Also, I don't know if you're planning in staying at a Guest House, but if you are I would recommend the Gwaii Haanas guest house. Mary and Pat will take great care of you, the house is a bit hippy-ish (but so are the islands), and the food excellent. If you happen to go there tell them the guy's who turned Felix's hair orange sent you. . . http://www.gwaiihaanas.com/ Bryan > I spent three weeks kayaking around the Queen's, and although I did not > dive (we didn't find anywhere to get fills on the islands, and tanks are [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Bryan Thanks for the reply. I have snorkeled at a couple of places, Broken Group, Desolation Sound, etc. Desolation Sound was actually around 70 degrees. We plan on kayaking down from Camp Moresby and we are planning on checking out the Gwaii Haanas guest house, and maybe staying a while. I'll make a note to ask about the guy who turned Felix's hair orange : ) Is fishing/spear fishing not allowed in the National Park? I just assumed that it was from the required permits. LG > <snip> > >I have snorkeled at a couple of places, Broken Group, Desolation Sound, >etc. Desolation Sound was actually around 70 degrees. We too found that the waters around the Charlottes weren't too bad temperature-wise; definitely warmer then around the Victoria-area. >We plan on kayaking down from Camp Moresby and we are planning on >checking out the Gwaii Haanas guest house, Wow - long trip! >and maybe staying a while. >I'll make a note to ask about the guy who turned Felix's hair orange : ) > >Is fishing/spear fishing not allowed in the National Park? I just >assumed that it was from the required permits. Fishing is allowed (requires a BC salt-water permit). What I meant was that the area is not fished commercially, unlike the rest of the Charlottes which is quite heavily fished. Bryan > > <snip> > > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Wow - long trip! Yeah, we are planning on spending 4-6 weeks and Rose Harbour is about the half way point of our trip. It is the old time or money dilemma :) My wife wants to spend a few days at Rose Harbour with a roof over her head and sleep in a bed. > >and maybe staying a while. > >I'll make a note to ask about the guy who turned Felix's hair orange : ) [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Bryan > <snip> > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > I assume that a trip of this length means that you are quite competent kayakers. If so, and a bit of open ocean doesn't scare you too much, head around the east side of Kugnet Island (that on the south side of Rose Harbour). As you head south along this coast you'll hit heater harbour (spent a night sleeping under the stars there; heaven on earth). A little farther down the coast is a beautiful beach. If your ballsy, and the weather co-operates, you can head even farther south to the very tip of the island. It's the southern most point on the Charlottes, and has both an amazing view and some amazing life. Caution though; it also has a reputation as having the most sever and variable weather/sea conditions on the island. If you get swept away there the nearest landfall is either the north end of Vancouver Island, or the mainland. Both are ~7 hours away by ferry, so it would be a bit of a paddle ;-) Talk to Patrick at Heater harbour; he'll tell you all about it. We made the trip (although we walk to the end, rather then paddle); it was well worth it. Bryan > > <snip> > > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > I assume that a trip of this length means that you are quite competent > kayakers. We can eskimo roll our tandem and have even done some surfing. The problem though is strength and endurance, the wind and waves sometimes never let up. > If so, and a bit of open ocean doesn't scare you too much, > head around the east side of Kugnet Island (that on the south side of [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > though; it also has a reputation as having the most sever and variable > weather/sea conditions on the island. I read a book about this part of the island (sorry I can't remember the title) and the auther described 100' waves on a cliff face. I guess the weather will be the determining factor. I try not be stupid but I like to push the envelope a little. > If you get swept away there the > nearest landfall is either the north end of Vancouver Island, or the > mainland. Both are ~7 hours away by ferry, so it would be a bit of a > paddle ;-) Talk to Patrick at Heater harbour; he'll tell you all about > it. We made the trip (although we walk to the end, rather then paddle); > it was well worth it. I will talk to Patrick. Thanks again for the suggestion, I hadn't really planned on going further south than Rose Harbour but I am always willing to go a little further to find heaven on Earth:) I really appreciate the info. LG > <snip> > >We can eskimo roll our tandem That's impressive; I screw it up about 1/2 the time in a single (forget to brace and fall out). I tried rolling a double one; but when your partner is an incompetent, uninspired weakling (no bitterness there) it just doesn't work. Lesson learned: if going out on a group trip never, ever, ever, let the guide set you up with an inexperienced rower. Kinda like diving that way. . . >I read a book about this part of the island (sorry I can't remember the >title) and the auther described 100' waves on a cliff face. I guess the >weather will be the determining factor. I try not be stupid but I like >to push the envelope a little. If memory serves me it called James point or something like that. I too have heard about the large waves, but they are one the west side (which is open to the Pacific). My recommendation (i.e. Patrick's recommendation) is to raw about 2/3rd the way there, then walk the rest on the beach. We were there during nice weather, but even then the waves and wind were pretty bad. If you're not planning on going that far south there is a lot of nice Kayaking in the area. SGang Gwayy island is a must-see - it's a long day trip or easy overnighter. Patrick can recommend some good campsites of you want to do the overnight thing (or you can go out in his zodiac). The Gordon Islands are also a nice one day trip, and fun to explore. No water and too windy for camping though. If fishing's your thing, and you're there late enough in the season, Rose Inlet is usually full of salmon during the run. Bryan |
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