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Scuba Forum / General / July 2009

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Aluminum tanks

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Wm. David Maddin - 21 Jul 2009 22:57 GMT
Well, I am back from being away.

I need some help in deciding what finish to apply to my aluminum tanks.
If any.

I have two H.P. Catalina 80cf alum. tanks, that currently, are coated with
what appears to be a clear coat which is chipped and now starting to peel.

This clear coat is red in hue, I understand this was popular and some of you
may remember these Catalina's.

I have passed these tanks to a trusted fabrication shop, the owner of which
is a friend and diver, who will have the coating removed. I am not sure if
they will use soda or walnut for the blast.

Once the coating is removed, I am thinking of having them polished and
perhaps coated with a clear powder coat or perhaps anodized.

I am not sure.

Any and all advise on coatings, anodizing, polishing or whatever, will be
gratefully appreciated.

I read where anodizing can be done with a multitude of different colours.
Perhaps cooper or bronze.

I have an old friend of mine who told me a story about diving on the B.C.
coast many, many years ago.

Apparently a large group of divers travelled to the coast for a week of
diving and found they were short of bottles for all to dive together.

Their solution was to empty and clean fire extinguishers for use as dive
bottles. I am told this worked well.

Lets see, cooper coloured anodize, laminated brass plate, circular carry
handle.
Yup, those Catalina's could look like old fire extinguishers.

David
Edmonton, Alberta
Blah - 22 Jul 2009 00:22 GMT
> Apparently a large group of divers travelled to the coast for a week of
> diving and found they were short of bottles for all to dive together.
>
> Their solution was to empty and clean fire extinguishers for use as dive
> bottles. I am told this worked well.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/tanks-valves-bands/40710-difference-between-scu
ba-tank-fire-extinguisher.html

Greg Mossman - 22 Jul 2009 01:18 GMT
> Well, I am back from being away.
>
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
> handle.
> Yup, those Catalina's could look like old fire extinguishers.

Paint them dark grey, then have a realistic-looking shark fin mounted
on the side so that when you're surface swimming face down, any
swimmers in the water will clear out of the water fast.  That way
you'll have the site to yourself on those shallow beach or spring
dives where lots of non-divers otherwise stir up the water.
Otherwise, a red-and-white color scheme will demonstrate your loyalty
to not only the colors of our protective dive flag, but also the
colours of your country's maple leaf.  If you ever dive in the U.S.,
simply tie a blue ribbon around it and you'll have all the bases
covered.
Ron - 22 Jul 2009 01:31 GMT
>Once the coating is removed, I am thinking of having them polished and
>perhaps coated with a clear powder coat or perhaps anodized.

 Whatever you do, *don't* have them powder coated.  If you do,
no shop that knows what it's doing will fill them.  Powder
coating requires a cure temperature of 160 to 210C.  A
temperature of 175C will seriously damage the aluminum's strength
and cause the cylinder to be removed from service.  In fact, a
cylinder is supposed to be re-hydro tested if ever taken as high
as 130C.
 See Luxfer doc at
http://www.luxfercylinders.com/support/maintenance/cm5.shtml

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Ron

Pete C. - 22 Jul 2009 02:41 GMT
> >Once the coating is removed, I am thinking of having them polished and
> >perhaps coated with a clear powder coat or perhaps anodized.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>   See Luxfer doc at
> http://www.luxfercylinders.com/support/maintenance/cm5.shtml

Luxfer also has a doc on refinishing / repainting cylinders.
Grumman-581 - 22 Jul 2009 05:32 GMT
> Well, I am back from being away.
>
> I need some help in deciding what finish to apply to my aluminum
> tanks. If any.

Since all finishes seem to eventually come off or at least get nicks in
them, maybe you would like to consider just having a bead blast finish on
them?

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Al Wells - 22 Jul 2009 12:37 GMT
> > I need some help in deciding what finish to apply to my aluminum
> > tanks. If any.
>
> Since all finishes seem to eventually come off or at least get nicks in
> them, maybe you would like to consider just having a bead blast finish on
> them?

I think that this is the best option. It is what we did with all of our
aluminum tanks at the shop in SC. Gravestone dealers often have the
right equipment and media for doing this - I've also used them to do
motorcycle frames.
Grumman-581 - 22 Jul 2009 06:05 GMT
> I have an old friend of mine who told me a story about diving on the
> B.C. coast many, many years ago.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Their solution was to empty and clean fire extinguishers for use as
> dive bottles. I am told this worked well.

With CO2 fire extinguisher bottles, I wouldn't have a problem with it...
They're rated for 1800 psi and as long as you keep that in mind with your
fill pressure, you would be OK... I wouldn't use most of the dry fire
extinguisher bottles though since I don't want to deal with whatever
chemical they put in them... Cleaning a CO2 tank basically involves
turning the valve on to let it empty and then once it's empty, removing
the valve and blowing some air down in there for a few seconds to flush
any remaining CO2 out of there... I have a 20# steel CO2 tank that I use
for carbonating beverages and filling tires after airing down and going
off-road... I believe that the CO2 tank uses the 3/4" x 14 NGT thread...
Typical aluminum SCUBA cylinders use the 3/4" x 14 NPS thread... NGT
threads are tapered and NPS threads are not tapered... Maybe you can find
an adapter to go from the NGT cylinder threads to a NPS threaded valve
for a yoke, but I don't think it is worth the trouble... A better
solution might be to keep the CO2 valve and have a conversion from the
CGA 320 valve to the SCUBA yoke... Even if the valves had been
interchangable, you still would have to have some spare K or J valves
around... That might seem a bit improbable, but there are probably a few
of us who 'upgraded' from the J valves to K valves and still have the J
valves hanging around in our spare gear bags...

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JRE - 22 Jul 2009 12:00 GMT
> Well, I am back from being away.
>
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
> David
> Edmonton, Alberta

As I understand it, at least some forms of anodizing cause
embrittlement, which you should avoid like the plague...

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John Eells

 
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