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Scuba Forum / General / July 2007Any underwater lights with electronic switch?
This might seem like an odd question, but I'm interested in obtaining some sort of light that I can install in a tank that can withstand pressures of up to 500 psi. The first thing that came to my mind is to buy a dive light, but I need this light to be either electronically turned on and off via a computer or at least manually turned on and off without needing to go inside of the tank. Are there any dive lights that you know of that can do this? Additionally, and this might be asking too much for now, but the light will need to be mounted inside the tank by screwing it into a 1" NPT female port. I doubt there are any lights out there that match these exact requirements, but any help would be much appreciated. Thanks! > This might seem like an odd question, but I'm interested in obtaining > some sort of light that I can install in a tank that can withstand [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > female port. I doubt there are any lights out there that match these > exact requirements, but any help would be much appreciated. Easiest solution is to go with an LED light and build the housing yourself... <snip> UCSD, huh? They still have the hang glider port over at the cliff overlooking Black's Beach? On Jul 11, 4:03 pm, Grumman-581 <grumman...@DIE-SPAMMER-SCUM- gmail.com> wrote: > <snip> > > UCSD, huh? They still have the hang glider port over at the cliff > overlooking Black's Beach? I'm heading down to my alma mater tomorrow to spend the night out there before making tracks in the early morning to Mission Bay and the dive boat. I'll look for hang gliders and if I see any, I'll tell 'em you said hi. > I'm heading down to my alma mater tomorrow to spend the night out > there before making tracks in the early morning to Mission Bay and the > dive boat. I'll look for hang gliders and if I see any, I'll tell 'em > you said hi. It would be interesting to see how some of the girls who used to frequent the nude beach at Black's Beach turned out after all these years in the sun... Hmmm... Come to think of it, maybe it wouldn't be that interesting... Wrinkled sun dried leather comes to mind... I think another good question is Can "NPT" take 500 psi without a shoulder and "O" ring. gary > This might seem like an odd question, but I'm interested in obtaining > some sort of light that I can install in a tank that can withstand [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Thanks! > I think another good question is Can "NPT" take 500 psi without a shoulder > and "O" ring. I seem to remember 1/4" NPT being used as the common connector for various do-it-yourself fill whips... > I think another good question is Can "NPT" take 500 psi without a > shoulder and "O" ring. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >> >> Thanks! NPT can take 3500PSI in my tractor's hydraulic system.  Signature“TANSTAAFL” ____________________________________________________________________________ "A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; The simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3 ____________________________________________________________________________ > NPT can take 3500PSI in my tractor's hydraulic system. And I remember some fairly old tanks used for diving that used NPT for their valves... Assuming they design the 1" NPT fitting correctly, 500 psi should not be a problem... I'm a bit curious what needs to be pressurized to 500 psi and needs a light inside of it... Designing small lights to handle that pressure is easier than designing large lights for it... Also, whether the light is going to be exposed to water or just air at 500 psi could make a difference in the design... The 1" NPT fittings work fine. There are 10 of then around this tank, and it's been pressurized multiple times without any problems. As for a brief description, this is a hyperbaric tank that we'll be able to put fish into and pressurize them anywhere up to 500 psi, then run acoustic experiments on them while they are pressurized. I want the light so that we can see the fish when the tank hatch is closed. But yeah, maybe the easiest way would be to just get an LED and make my own housing for it. Guess I'll have to start doing my research. Thanks! On Jul 11, 8:03 pm, Grumman-581 <grumman...@DIE-SPAMMER-SCUM- gmail.com> wrote: > On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 21:33:12 -0500, dazed and confuzzed > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > lights for it... Also, whether the light is going to be exposed to > water or just air at 500 psi could make a difference in the design... > I want the light so that we can see the fish when the > tank hatch is closed. So, there's a view port on the tank? Will the light be underwater or in the air space at the top of the tank? > But yeah, maybe the easiest way would be to just get an LED and make > my own housing for it. Guess I'll have to start doing my research. You can find the LEDs encased in epoxy and as such, they'll withstand pressure pretty damn good without even needing a watertight enclosure... Depending upon how big the tank is and how much light you need, it sounds like a pretty easy little project... Yeah, there are 4 small view ports around the tank. The tank is about 3 meters high and wide...holds roughly 1000 liters of water. I planned on having the light underwater. The only options are to have the light inside the tank and underwater, or have it outside, which I don't think will illuminate enough of the tank to get a good look. I'll take a look at LED's in epoxy. Any good leads on where to look? I guess the only tricky part after that then is connecting it to some sort of 1" NPT fitting. Thanks again! On Jul 12, 12:36 pm, Grumman-581 <grumman...@DIE-SPAMMER-SCUM- gmail.com> wrote: > > I want the light so that we can see the fish when the > > tank hatch is closed. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > enclosure... Depending upon how big the tank is and how much light you > need, it sounds like a pretty easy little project... > I'll take a look at LED's in epoxy. Any good leads on where to look? > I guess the only tricky part after that then is connecting it to some > sort of 1" NPT fitting. You might want to consider going with a 1" NPT plug and machining it to accept the LEDs or potted LED housings... Doing a quick google search, I came up with: http://www.theledlight.com/LEDTriCluster.html Item #DM 302-Brass looks like it might be a good starting point... Add an O-ring to it and mate it to a tapped out 1" NPT plug that was machined flush and it should work... Of course, you could get by cheaper by just epoxying the bare LEDs into holes in the 1" plug... Your design is also going to depend upon what direction(s) you want the light coming from... Perhaps a single source light is not acceptable and if so, you'll want to mount multiple LEDs around the housing that you create... > The 1" NPT fittings work fine. There are 10 of then around this tank, > and it's been pressurized multiple times without any problems. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Thanks! http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/torch/62743497-A955-492E-8F68-FD5A420875F8.html > http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/torch/62743497-A955-492E-8F68-FD5A420875F8.html For $1250, I would expect it to be machined from titanium... http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/torch/62743497-A955-492E-8F68-FD5A420875F8.html > For $1250, I would expect it to be machined from titanium... http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/movieSOLUS.html > http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/torch/62743497-A955-492E-8F68-FD5A420875F8.html Interesting that they didn't list a depth rating for it... I doubt that fits the requirements of the project for which the OP was wanting it... >>http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/torch/62743497-A955-492E-8F68-FD5A420875F8.html > > Interesting that they didn't list a depth rating for it... > > I doubt that fits the requirements of the project for which the OP was > wanting it... I use a Dive Rite MR11 HID and it has a depth rating of 500ft. One interesting thing about the SU-500 is their mention of bulb life. HID bulb life is measured less in hours and more in on/off cycles. Switching an HID on and then back off again before it has an opportunity to "warm up" is an almost guarantee for premature failure. Same thing for switching it off and then back on again quickly. > I use a Dive Rite MR11 HID and it has a depth rating of 500ft. About half of what the OP needed... > One interesting thing about the SU-500 is their mention of bulb life. > HID bulb life is measured less in hours and more in on/off cycles. > Switching an HID on and then back off again before it has an opportunity > to "warm up" is an almost guarantee for premature failure. Same thing > for switching it off and then back on again quickly. LEDs on the other hand come pretty damn close to lasting *forever*... OK, technically, not *forever*, but you'll probably misplace the light before the LED finally goes bad... <grin> >>I use a Dive Rite MR11 HID and it has a depth rating of 500ft. > > About half of what the OP needed... Highly unlikely I will ever be in a position to test that rating in the real world. >>One interesting thing about the SU-500 is their mention of bulb life. >>HID bulb life is measured less in hours and more in on/off cycles. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > OK, technically, not *forever*, but you'll probably misplace the light > before the LED finally goes bad... <grin> Agreed, although I have seen LED failure. One of the most common are traffic lights that have a huge array of LED's that make up the red, yellow, or green signal. Not uncommon to see a section of a signal go out. > Agreed, although I have seen LED failure. One of the most common are > traffic lights that have a huge array of LED's that make up the red, > yellow, or green signal. Not uncommon to see a section of a signal go > out. That would be a failure of the electronics, not the emitter. >>Agreed, although I have seen LED failure. One of the most common are >>traffic lights that have a huge array of LED's that make up the red, >>yellow, or green signal. Not uncommon to see a section of a signal go >>out. > > That would be a failure of the electronics, not the emitter. Could be either depending on how they are in the circuit. If they are series clusters and one fails, it can take out the entire cluster. If each cluster is supplied by a separate power supply and the power supply fails, that could take it out. Having never looked at one of those critters up close and personal, I can only speculate. However, I have seen individual LED's fail. Not that common and as a general rule that can take a pretty good beating and still keep working as opposed to incandescent and other type bulbs but they are not impervious. > Highly unlikely I will ever be in a position to test that rating in the > real world. Agreed, but it's always nice to know that the weak link in your gear configuration is you and not your gear... <grin> > Agreed, although I have seen LED failure. One of the most common are > traffic lights that have a huge array of LED's that make up the red, > yellow, or green signal. Not uncommon to see a section of a signal go > out. That sounds more like a circuitry problem instead of a problem with the actual LEDs... >>Highly unlikely I will ever be in a position to test that rating in the >>real world. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > That sounds more like a circuitry problem instead of a problem with > the actual LEDs... My reply to Scott covered this, but could be either, depending on how they have them wired. http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/torch/62743497-A955-492E-8F68-FD5A420875F8.html > Interesting that they didn't list a depth rating for it... > > I doubt that fits the requirements of the project for which the OP was > wanting it... http://oxycheq.com/Oxycheq/movieSOLUS.html > I think another good question is Can "NPT" take 500 psi without a shoulder > and "O" ring. > gary Easily, in fact, well over 20,000 psi. Provided the NPT is cut properly. It is not clear to me whether the light should lighten the inside of the tank only, and recieve supply voltage from outside, or wheter it shall give a signal to the outside world. Did you consider fiber optics? Matthias > This might seem like an odd question, but I'm interested in obtaining > some sort of light that I can install in a tank that can withstand [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Thanks! > It is not clear to me whether the light should lighten the > inside of the tank only, and recieve supply voltage from > outside, or wheter it shall give a signal to the outside world. > > Did you consider fiber optics? > Matthias The light should only lighten the inside of the tank and will receive it's supply voltage from outside...preferably computer controllable but not necessary. Haven't thought about fiber optics, but can look into that as well. Thanks. > > This might seem like an odd question, but I'm interested in obtaining > > some sort of light that I can install in a tank that can withstand [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > > Thanks! > The light should only lighten the inside of the tank and will receive > it's supply voltage from outside...preferably computer controllable > but not necessary. One of the advantages of LEDs is that you can use red, green, and blue ones and vary the level of each to control color and brightness... Rockwell has a similar system for controlling cabin lighting in corporate jets and such... Basically, you sent particularly formated TCP/IP packet to the controller for the various commands for setting and retrieving the current light status... Perhaps a bit overkill for what you're wanting to do, but it just goes to show you what is *possible*... |
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