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Scuba Forum / General / May 2007How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil?
How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? > How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a > spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? It depends upon how big your cock is and whether it will fit my butt. > How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a > spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? How ever much it takes for you to be neutral at 10 feet with 500 or less PSI in your bottle(s). This is on the off chance you aren't a troll. >> How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a >> spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > This is on the off chance you aren't a troll. I was told that I should take 10% of my weight, sounds like a great deal of weight but that's what I'm bringing today. This newsgroup has become a haven for low lives. >>> How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a >>> spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > This newsgroup has become a haven for low lives. We don't -all- think of you that way. > I was told that I should take 10% of my weight, sounds like a great deal > of weight but that's what I'm bringing today. 20lbs for a 3mm shorty does sound a bit high, but with person-to- person variation, plus with variance in trapped air space in gear, it isn't impossible, either. My guess would be that you'll be under 15lbs, but it would be helpful if you could provide data on how much weighting you needed in any other situation. For example, if you needed 0lbs in a freshwater pool and no wetsuit, going from fresh to salt for 200lbs will add around 6lbs. Similarly, its pretty easy to take a new wetsuit down to the pool, put it in a mesh bag and see how many weights need to be added to the bag to sink it. Since this will give you its buoyancy at the surface (instead of at your safety stop), you should subtract off a bit, plus after a new suit gets 3-5 dives on it, even a shorty will give up a pound. In any event, what you should do after you get a basic buoyancy check done is at the end of your dive at your safety stop, before heading to the surface, take a moment and assess how much air was left in your BC during your safety stop because this represents compensation for ballast that you didn't need. One way of doing this would be after you've completed your 15fsw safety stop, completely empty your BC and gage how negative you become. Just make sure to then re-fill it to regain neutrality, do another minute at 15fsw just to be safe, then surface and go write some notes in your logbook for what you just learned, so as to help with fine-tuning your weights when planning your next dive. > This newsgroup has become a haven for low lives. There's a lot of low lifes everywhere these days, unfortunately. Fortunately, a good on-topic post here still draws out good information from the community here. Only problem is the shortage of good, on-topic posts. -hh >> I was told that I should take 10% of my weight, sounds like a great deal >> of weight but that's what I'm bringing today. Take 2 4 pound, 2 3 pound and 2 2pound weights, On the first dive wear it all. at the end try to remember to keep 500 psi in your tank and then experiment. remove a weight and take all the air out of your BC you are looking to have a float depth of half way up your mask. If you go lower take off another weight etc then write the number down in your log book along with the thickness of your dive suit > Take 2 4 pound, 2 3 pound and 2 2pound weights, On the first dive wear > it all. at the end try to remember to keep 500 psi in your tank and > then experiment. remove a weight and take all the air out of your BC > you are looking to have a float depth of half way up your mask. If you > go lower take off another weight etc then write the number down in > your log book along with the thickness of your dive suit Generally ok, but could be simplified. Float depth to halfway up your mask is way more precise than necessary. All you have to know is whether you float or sink. If you float, you need more weight. The least amount of weight that causes you to sink is what you want. Plus, when you are doing this test, exhale first. bracuk@axxent.ca sexually excited me with: > Generally ok, but could be simplified. Float depth to halfway up your > mask is way more precise than necessary. All you have to know is > whether you float or sink. If you float, you need more weight. The > least amount of weight that causes you to sink is what you want. > > Plus, when you are doing this test, exhale first. oh, i love it when you big macho men do those deep breathing exercises. it just gets me -so- horny. rec.scuba's resident pussy "Scott" <pugetsounddiver@gmail.com> sputtered: > This is on the off chance you aren't a troll. Scotty is paranoid about everyone. There's a greater chance that the person is just one of Scotty's sockpuppets.  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a > spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? hi we get this question so often here as well in the red sea, and the typical answer and the best solution is to PERFORM A BUOYANCY CHECK. because no calculation would be useful.it's all individual differences, some people are relaxed and some others not, some people have good breathing and others don't, some have the most of their weight in their fats while others have it in their muscles... buoyancy check. 1-put all equipment in place. 2-enter water too deep to stand up in. 3-stay vertical and motionless in the water. 4-deflate all the air from your BCD and hold a normal breath. 5-if you are properly weighted u should float to eye level, to test it exhale , you should sink slowly. 6-add 2 kg to compensate for you air as u breathing it the tank will go lighter. i hope you find this information useful Dive Well Yasser >> How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a >> spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Dive Well > Yasser What he said! Don't guess. Too little and you won't sink. Too much and you'll have trouble getting to the surface. And put everything down in your log book. Any changes in equipment, clothing, diet or exercise will change the weight. Sheldon > What he said! Don't guess. Too little and you won't sink. Too much and > you'll have trouble getting to the surface. And put everything down in your > log book. Any changes in equipment, clothing, diet or exercise will change > the weight. I have to wonder if perhaps the dive shops don't really go much into proper weighting these days... Kaitlyn finished up her open water dives for her SSI certification this weekend and this was one of the things that I noticed... It seems that their philosophy is to just throw enough weight on them so that they can *definitely* sink and then rely on the BC to make up for it... I spent some time between dives with Kaitlyn, adding one weight at a time to her weightbelt, getting her as close to neutrally buoyant on the surface as possible... Since she was using Grace's BC (which is a typical jacket style unit), I added soft weights separately to it in the pockets to get it neutrally buoyant with no air in the BC and a nearly empty tank... I saw students who would not jump into the water with their weightbelt on and their BC not on because they weren't sure how negatively buoyant they would be without the BC... Personally, I figure that is something that you should figure out either in the class or at least in the time before the dives on the open water days... It was kind of funny to watch the students trying to put on their jacket style BCs in the water for one of the skill tests... They would pump their BC completely full of air and then to wiggle around and get both arms in it... What with all the dangling hoses and straps and the fact that the BC was way up on the surface, this ended up looking like some sort of contortion contest... It's a good thing that they were doing the skills tests on a platform that was suspended well off the bottom... The students had gauges, regs, and whatnot dangling all over everywhere... If they had been near the bottom, everything would have been dragging through it and making the visibility even crappier than it already was... Oh well... It was a busy weekend (and a busy 3 weeks for the classes), but she's finally certified... Looks like she'll be making the trip to Florida with me this year... Mikey sexually stimulated me with: > I have to wonder if perhaps the dive shops don't really go much into > proper weighting these days... Kaitlyn finished up her open water > dives for her SSI certification this weekend and this was one of the > things that I noticed... so kaitlyn finished up her cert? well, for a reward, i'll let her butt f.ck me. i usually only let little boys do it, but for her, i'll make an exception. maybe she can put her snorkel between her legs so that i can pretend that she's a little boy? uh oh, i creamed my keeeeyyyyybbboooaarrrd agggaaaiinnn. <snip> > It was kind of funny to watch the students trying to put on their > jacket style BCs in the water for one of the skill tests... They would > pump their BC completely full of air and then to wiggle around and get > both arms in it... What with all the dangling hoses and straps and the > fact that the BC was way up on the surface, this ended up looking like > some sort of contortion contest... I took two separate scuba classes: once when I was in college just for fun (not for certification because I couldn't afford the check out dives at the time) and once a few years after college (for certification). I learned my favorite "in-water" equipment don in the first class. Basically, it involves filling the BC with just enough air to keep it floating. Then, I sit on it, find the arm holes, and slide in. > I took two separate scuba classes: once when I > was in college just for fun (not for certification [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > keep it floating. Then, I sit on it, find the arm > holes, and slide in. I'm kind of surprised that apparently they didn't teach them the overhead water don of the tank... The one where you lay the BC out in front of you with the valve pointing towards you and then dive under it and flip it over you at the same time... Of course, it probably works better when you have less air than I saw all of them with in their BCs... Another thing that I noticed is that they didn't put their reg in their mouth until after they had the BC on and hooked up... The of course results in them trying to keep their head above the water while fighting with an overinflated BC... Oh well... The end result is that they all get their C-cards and they can now go about the process of learning how to *really* dive... One thing that was a bit funny there was that Kaitlyn was wearing a 7mm FJ wetsuit... During the snorkeling 'dive', she was basically floating with her chest out of the water since she hadn't worn her weight belt... When it got time for her to flip and dive down, all that happened was that she went inverted, tried to go under, and then popped back to the surface... Oh well... Unlike a lot of the other divers there, at least she was warm... > > I took two separate scuba classes: once when I > > was in college just for fun (not for certification [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > works better when you have less air than I saw all of them with in > their BCs... I never liked that one. It always took me two tries to be be able to get it so that the hoses were all in the right place. I like my method because it allows me to use the bouyancy in the BC to keep my head above water until I've got the BC on. It's pretty simple to do to and you don't have to worry about the routing of the hoses. It's the easiest way I've tried to don my gear at the surface. On the other hand, it doesn't really work that well at depth, so I'll do the overhead don then. > Another thing that I noticed is that they didn't put their reg in > their mouth until after they had the BC on and hooked up... The of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Oh well... The end result is that they all get their C-cards and they > can now go about the process of learning how to *really* dive... I'll be glad when I can start that process. :-) So far, my experience has been way more limited than I would prefer. > One thing that was a bit funny there was that Kaitlyn was wearing a > 7mm FJ wetsuit... During the snorkeling 'dive', she was basically [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > popped back to the surface... Oh well... Unlike a lot of the other > divers there, at least she was warm... Janeen has had that problem before. As a matter of fact, for her second dive (Negril, Jamaica) she was underweighted. At the time, neither of us was certified (diving on "resort course" certs) so we really didn't have much of an idea what was going on. Even with her BC completely empty, she spent the entire dive at 45 degrees kicking to simultaneously keep up and stay down. The next day she told the people that she needed more weight and they didn't believe her. We argued with them for about 15 minutes before they gave her a weight belt with more weight. She enjoyed that third dive much better than the previous one. > How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a > spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? The "10%" rule is a good place to start but the BEST way is to perform a bouyancy check before the dive. There are SO many variables here. Different people have different bouyancy characteristics. Another 205lb person may require more or less weight than you. Also, what style tanks will you be using? An Al80 will be positive when empty whereas a steel 100 will be negative. How new is your wetsuit? After a wetsuit has been used a bit and been to some depth, it will become less bouyant. This is why I said 10% is a good place to start. I would have more weight available if you need it. Can you get in fresh water (say, a pool) with the same gear? If so: get weighted neutrally. Take the weight of the system (diver, tank, lead, P valve, whatever). If you have a full AL80, add 6 pounds. If you have an emptyish AL80, add nothing, if something else, ask here. Take that weight, multiply by .0256. That's how much MORE lead you will need in salt water. That's not a rule of thumb, that's high school physics. > How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? > How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a > spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? I ended up with 17.3 lbs. and it was ok. I had to dump absolutely all gas from my BC to get down passed 20 feet but after that sunk like a rock. I should say that most of my 205 lbs. is muscle and not from being 'big boned'...(at the risk of getting homos all excited). > I ended up with 17.3 lbs. and it was ok. I had to dump absolutely all gas > from my BC to get down passed 20 feet but after that sunk like a rock. > > I should say that most of my 205 lbs. is muscle and not from being 'big > boned'...(at the risk of getting homos all excited). Sounds good, you should have to dump all of your BC gas to descend. What you don't want is to do a long dive, be at the edge of a potential deco hit, have 300 psi left in your bottle and be unable to stay at 20 or ten feet for a safety stop. If that does happen, you hit the surface, orally inflate (again not wanting to get Carl excited) your BC and just be as still as you can for ten minutes minimum. Obviously this is not possible in many boat dive situations, but is the ideal. It is actually better to dive a little heavy than to be at the edge. My rig is 5# heavy, and I have a solid 5# weight that I can pull out quickly to hand off to divers when we hit 20 so they can hang on to it and finish the safety stop. In the past 5 years, I have used this so many times I cant count them all. In my locale it isn't such a big deal, we live at the edge of a glacial fjord, and most of our dives you can hit 30 feet within 50 feet of the waterline. Worse comes to worse, you can just pick up a big rock. > Sounds good, you should have to dump all of your BC gas to descend. > > What you don't want is to do a long dive, be at the edge of a potential deco > hit, have 300 psi left in your bottle and be unable to stay at 20 or ten > feet for a safety stop. These days, I'm tending to go with the idea of determining the weight needed for diver separately from the equipment... Putting it all together is great if you always dive the same configuration, but you mix and match things dependent upon the conditions for the dive for that day, it would be nice to just have a list of weights needed for each piece of gear... Instead of having to list all the possible combinations of gear that you might dive with, you just list each item separately... You probably still have to list a value for the item in salt and fresh water, but it is probably a bit less work than listing every possible combination like normally... Let's say that the equipment choices are a FJ top, FJ bottom, FJ top+bottom, single AL80, double AL80s, single steel-72, double steel 72s... With the all possible combination method, you end up with 3*4=12 possible weighting options for each particular water type (i.e. fresh or salt) + 1 more weighting for your own natural buoyancy = 13... FJ top, AL80 FJ top, double AL80s FJ top, steel-72 FJ top, double steel-72s FJ bottom, AL80 FJ bottom, double AL80s FJ bottom, steel-72 FJ bottom, double steel-72s FJ top+bottom, AL80 FJ top+bottom, double AL80s FJ top+bottom, steel-72 FJ top+bottom, double steel-72s your own natural buoyancy weighting With the separate method of weight calculation, you would need 4 measurements for each water type: your own natural buoyancy weighting FJ top FJ bottom steel-72 AL80 Kind of like when we're calculating weight and balance on aircraft, come to think of it... We start out with a base measurement and then add on the other items that get added to the plane and their moment arm locations in reference to some base point... With respect to the fresh vs salt water weighting issues, if this can be accurately calculated mathematically as someone previously suggested, that's one less set of measurements that you would need to take... > These days, I'm tending to go with the idea of determining the weight > needed for diver separately from the equipment... Putting it all [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > salt and fresh water, but it is probably a bit less work than listing > every possible combination like normally... I did something like that years ago. Only real difference is that I used typical groupings instead of individual pieces. > Kind of like when we're calculating weight and balance on aircraft, > come to think of it... We start out with a base measurement and then > add on the other items that get added to the plane and their moment > arm locations in reference to some base point... Pretty much. FWIW, I did the same thing for SAC estimates, a baseline plus modifiers for various environmental and/or condition factors (cold, current, etc). For the most part, I run these as +X% percentages. -hh > I did something like that years ago. > > Only real difference is that I used typical groupings instead of > individual pieces. I can see a certain logic in that since one could argue that certain combinations don't get used together very much... I think I would still prefer it on a per equipment piece basis... That way, for the dive where you end up with 2 AL80s for back gas and 2 AL80s for stages, you just multiply the single AL80 extra weight by 4... Having to substitute steel 72s at the last minute for a couple of the tanks just ends up still being easy to handle even if you hadn't preplanned for that particular gear configuration... On the other hand, if you are needing to measure the negative buoyancy of a particular item, a 2-liter soda bottle works pretty good... Or perhaps multiple 2-liter bottles if the item is quite a bit negatively buoyant... Tie a string from the item to the top of the bottle... The bottle will be inverted in the water with the cap on it... Keep adding water until the bottle is completely submerged just below the surface of the water... Remove the bottle from the water and measure that amount of water that you had to add... Figure on 1g per cc of water... Fill the bottle all the way to the top and measure how many cc's that it takes to fill it... Although they are quoted as 2-liter bottles, they hold a bit more since there is an air space at the top of the bottles when "full"... 1 cc = 1 ml, thus 2 liters = 2,000 cc's + whatever headspace... The 2 liter PET bottles are so light that their weight can basically be ignored... Especially since you are not going to calculate the buoyancy of most of your gear in fractional pounds anyway... Spend a little bit of time and make accurate measurements on your gear and the only thing that might change over the years is your own personal buoyancy and perhaps your wetsuit as it starts getting worn out from neoprene compression over the years of deep dives... >>How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a >>spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I should say that most of my 205 lbs. is muscle and not from being 'big > boned'...(at the risk of getting homos all excited). This leads me to ask, and perhaps I am reading something into your message. Did you have to work at it to get to 20 ft, or did you drop immediately once you dumped your BC? If you had to struggle, then how was your buoyancy at the end of the dive? Could you easily maintain neutral buoyancy at 15-20 ft for you safety stop? >>>How much weight do I need in salt water if I weigh 205lbs. and wearing a >>>spring suit (long sleaves/short legs 3mil? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > your buoyancy at the end of the dive? Could you easily maintain neutral > buoyancy at 15-20 ft for you safety stop? Max depth was 85ft, I started up at 500 lbs (EAN) and stopped at 20ft. for 3 minutes. It was easy to maintain depth with breathing...and the marker and/or the anchor line. I must say that I had a speargun, knife and catch ring, all added up to maybe 3lbs. in the wa'da. There was no struggle getting down. I bailed, sank slowly, flipped and headed straight down after completely submerged. We did the USS Mindanao, off Daytona Beach. Saw some big Goliath Grouper, 3-400 lbs., a turtle, millions of fee'ish but only got a 17 lb. Yellow Jack and a 7 lb. Amber Jack. One might say it was a 'hundred dollar Jack' with all the gas we used. Check it out at... alt.binaries.monster-movies in "Monster of the Sea" > "nitespark" <nitespark@cox.net> wrote in message > Max depth was 85ft, I started up at 500 lbs (EAN) and stopped at 20ft. for 3 > minutes. It was easy to maintain depth with breathing...and the marker [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > There was no struggle getting down. I bailed, sank slowly, flipped and > headed straight down after completely submerged. Then it sounds like you were properly weighted. Just be aware, on future dives, if you use a different wetsuit, such as thicker suit, full length suit, farmer john style, or go with a drysuit, it will change your buoyancy. Also, you can probably drop 5-6 lbs if you dive the same configuration in fresh water. Also, you didn't mention to type tank you were using, but a typical Al80 will be 1-2lbs positive at the end of a dive. A steel tank (I use HP 100's) will be negative. >> "nitespark" <nitespark@cox.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Also, you can probably drop 5-6 lbs if you dive the same configuration in > fresh water. The only time I ever dove fresh water was in Ponce or Blue Springs...I ferget. I had to turn my flash light off to see where the entrance of the spring was, dumb, dumb dumb. > Also, you didn't mention to type tank you were using, but a typical Al80 AL80s NITROX 40% > will be 1-2lbs positive at the end of a dive. A steel tank (I use HP > 100's) will be negative. It's probably a good thing the tank weighs a few pounds more on empty. It helps to stabilize buoyancy if one is a bit light on the front end of the dive. > "nitespark" <nitesp...@cox.net> wrote in message > It's probably a good thing the tank weighs a few pounds more on empty. It > helps to stabilize buoyancy if one is a bit light on the front end of the > dive. Huh? The steel tank doesn't weigh more when empty. It may still be negative, but it's less negative. All that air you breathe and exhale into the water weighs something. >> "nitespark" <nitesp...@cox.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > negative, but it's less negative. All that air you breathe and exhale > into the water weighs something. Read my post again, you snipped the part were I said AL80s, not steel "Also, you didn't mention to type tank you were using, but a typical Al80 will be 1-2lbs positive at the end of a dive. A steel tank (I use HP 100's) will be negative." --nitespark >>>"nitespark" <nitesp...@cox.net> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > 100's) will be negative." > --nitespark Understood. I was merely pointing out one of the many factors that will affect your buoyancy. Style of tank being one of them. >>>>"nitespark" <nitesp...@cox.net> wrote in message >>> [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Understood. I was merely pointing out one of the many factors that will > affect your buoyancy. Style of tank being one of them. I'd like to try a steel 100 some time. Bottom time at 85ft. on a AL80 with 40% O2 was 31 minutes. It would be nice to stay down 45 minutes >>"nitespark" <nitesp...@cox.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > negative, but it's less negative. All that air you breathe and exhale > into the water weighs something. An empty steel tank will weigh more than an empty aluminum tank of comparable or near comparable capacities. Sorry I didn't put it in "lawyerese". >>> It's probably a good thing the tank weighs a few pounds more on >>> empty. >> Huh? >> [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > An empty steel tank will weigh more than an empty aluminum tank of > comparable or near comparable capacities. Not my ones. Matthias > Not my ones. Did a quick weigh of one of my AL80s and a steel 72... The full AL80 weighs 38 lbs... The full steel 72 weighs 35 lbs... The steel 72 is a 2250 psi tank... Adding another 250 psi (i.e. 2500 psi total) will result in 80 cu-ft... If your local fill station doesn't mind adding a bit extra to a steel tank, the steel 72s seem like a better deal than the AL80s... I've noticed that the fill stations are more likely to give you a fill above the tank's rated pressure if it is steel vs aluminum... > Did a quick weigh of one of my AL80s and a steel 72... The full AL80 > weighs 38 lbs... The full steel 72 weighs 35 lbs... The steel 72 is a [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > give you a fill above the tank's rated pressure if it is steel vs > aluminum... For good reason. The strength in steel tanks is partly in their ability to stretch and return to or near their original shape. Aluminum does not stretch as well. The discussion, I believe, was about buoyancy, not weight. I think Hugh made a mistake when he said steel tanks were heavier. That's often, perhaps usually not the case. Steel tanks are, however, often less buoyant than aluminum ones. As noted, standard aluminum tanks are buoyant when empty while steel tanks are normally neutral or slightly positive. Lee >>Not my ones. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > give you a fill above the tank's rated pressure if it is steel vs > aluminum... A wise move. Matthias >>>> It's probably a good thing the tank weighs a few pounds more on empty. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Not my ones. Geez....I am speaking GENERALLY. There are exceptions to almost every rule. I used some aluminum tanks in Key Largo a year or so ago that were negative when near empty. GENERALLY speaking and empty Al80 (which are very common) are slightly positive when empty vs an empty Steel which is negative when empty. > Geez....I am speaking GENERALLY. There are exceptions to almost every > rule. I used some aluminum tanks in Key Largo a year or so ago that > were negative when near empty. GENERALLY speaking and empty Al80 (which > are very common) are slightly positive when empty vs an empty Steel > which is negative when empty. Given the number of steel-72s that were produced over the years and the fact that they rarely fail inspection and hydro, one could probably make a good argument that they are probably the most common steel tank out there... Unfortunately, I have no figures to back up this, but it's not like this has ever stopped anyone around here anyway... <grin> >>>>> It's probably a good thing the tank weighs a few pounds more on empty. >> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > are very common) are slightly positive when empty vs an empty Steel > which is negative when empty. What Lee said... AL's weigh more on the scale, less in the water. Density of AL is 2,7 [kg/dm^3[, of steel 7,85.. Matthias > What Lee said... AL's weigh more on the scale, less in the > water. Density of AL is 2,7 [kg/dm^3[, of steel 7,85.. But density is not everything... Given the same pressure rating, the aluminum tanks will have a thicker wall thickness than the steel ones... I don't know the exact figures, perhaps someone else does... If I remember correctly, the AL80s have a wall thickness of approximately 1/2 inch whereas a comparable steel tank will have a wall thickness of approximately 3/16th of an inch... >>What Lee said... AL's weigh more on the scale, less in the >>water. Density of AL is 2,7 [kg/dm^3[, of steel 7,85.. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > approximately 1/2 inch whereas a comparable steel tank will have a > wall thickness of approximately 3/16th of an inch... When I find my ultrasonic thickness meter I'll have a look. With steel ones, it differs with to the manufacturing process. Worthington bottles are especially heavy, late IWK ones much lighter, Eurocylinder something in between, Faber the similar to IWK. Matthias > The only time I ever dove fresh water was in Ponce or Blue Springs...I > ferget. I had to turn my flash light off to see where the entrance of the > spring was, dumb, dumb dumb. If you're talking in the Orange City area, it was Blue Springs. Ponce De Leon Springs has had a locked gate over the cave system for as long as I can remember. Lee > If you're talking in the Orange City area, it was Blue Springs. Ponce De > Leon Springs has had a locked gate over the cave system for as long as I can > remember. There wasn't a locked gate back around 1981 when we used to dive it... When I was there on a previous Florida trip though, it didn't look like I remembered it... Perhaps there's another spring with a similar name... Perhaps I'm just having an Alzheimer's Moment... >> If you're talking in the Orange City area, it was Blue Springs. Ponce De >> Leon Springs has had a locked gate over the cave system for as long as I >> can >> remember. > There wasn't a locked gate back around 1981 when we used to dive it... > When I was there on a previous Florida trip though, it didn't look > like I remembered it... Perhaps there's another spring with a similar > name... Perhaps I'm just having an Alzheimer's Moment... Probably my mistake. It turns out that there is a Ponce De Leon Springs in NW Florida and a De Leon Springs near Deland, Florida. De Leon Springs is the spring I was familiar with back in the 1960s. It was commercialized even back then and, from what I found, still is. You used to be able to dive there, but I see nothing in the current information indicating divers are still welcome. Lee > Probably my mistake. It turns out that there is a Ponce De Leon Springs in > NW Florida and a De Leon Springs near Deland, Florida. De Leon Springs is > the spring I was familiar with back in the 1960s. It was commercialized > even back then and, from what I found, still is. You used to be able to > dive there, but I see nothing in the current information indicating divers > are still welcome. May have something to do with why ole Ponce didn't find the fountain of youth... He was looking in the wrong place all along. > Probably my mistake. It turns out that there is a Ponce De Leon Springs in > NW Florida and a De Leon Springs near Deland, Florida. De Leon Springs is > the spring I was familiar with back in the 1960s. It was commercialized > even back then and, from what I found, still is. You used to be able to > dive there, but I see nothing in the current information indicating divers > are still welcome. When I was at there a couple of years ago, it looked entirely different from what I remember from back in 1981... The way that I remember it, there was a pretty good swim from the shore to the hole in the bottom of the lake that was the entrance to the cave system... That is definitely not what I saw when I visited there a couple of years ago... Considering the fact that I was based out of Orlando at the time, I seriously doubt that we drove all the way up to NW Florida for the dive... That would lead me to believe that we dove De Leon Springs, not Ponce de Leon Springs, although I knew it by the name of Ponce de Leon Springs back then... Basically, it's probably an Alzheimer's Moment... On the other hand, if there is a way into the cave system from out in the middle of the lake that is NW of there, it might match with what still remains in the few brain cells that I have that have survived from that time... |
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