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Scuba Forum / General / March 2006

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A Month in Micronesia

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duncankunz@cox.net - 05 Mar 2006 15:28 GMT
Hi, I'm Duncan, and I just joined this group.  I'm a member of several
other forums, but some of them, like WetPixel, are pretty daunting for
an amateur.  As soon as I saw a diver take a break and discuss the very
real danger of Black Helicopters (since I work that the factory which
makes them), I knew this'd be a fun place.

Anyway, the reason I'm posting is that my family (wife and 21-year-old
son) are going to Micronesia from 17 Dec 2006 to 12 Jan 2007.  It's a
trip of a lifetime for us, and we want to do it right.  We've already
bought plane tickets and will be staying 5 days in Palau, 9 days in
Truk, 4 days in Yap, and 3 in Majuro (the rest of the days involve
flying).

Interestingly enough, I lived there from age 5 to 16, but that was 45
years ago and everything's changed, I'm sure.

I need to talk to as many people as possible who have been there
recently to get some inside info on some of the hotels and any fun
things that you would recommend as 'not to miss'.  My wife and I are
both Advanced OWD and my kid will be OWD next month.  I like
photography, so I'd rather stay at around 30-40 feet; my wife likes
pelagics, so she likes to hang out at 100-120 ft.  So we'll both have
to compormise!  Obviously, with 9 diving days on Truk, we plan on a LOT
of wreck diving.

Anyway, if anyone out there has any insights or advice, I'd love to
hear from you.
Greg Mossman - 05 Mar 2006 16:10 GMT
> I need to talk to as many people as possible who have been there
> recently to get some inside info on some of the hotels and any fun
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> to compormise!  Obviously, with 9 diving days on Truk, we plan on a LOT
> of wreck diving.

There's really not much "fun" to be had in Micronesia, save for the
excellent diving.  This ain't Hawaii or Cancun.  I can't speak to Majuro,
but the only touristy things to do on Truk are covered in a several-hour
island tour that includes a cave with a long gun at the end and a tour of
the high school that used to be a Japanese administration building.  On Yap,
you can attend a "cultural presentation" featuring native dancers, a
demonstration of basket weaving, and a taste of local fruit and betel nut.
Palau is a little better, offering attractions such as jellyfish lake and
kayaking in the rock islands.  Other than that, Truk is sort of seedy, and
Yap, outside the town, is privately owned and you need permission to stray
anywhere (there is some hiking along the old stone paths, but they're very
slippery and it's pretty darn hot and humid to go tramping through the
jungle).  Palau too is mainly privately owned.  I recall one place where we
stopped for lunch where we were allowed to snorkle around in the shallows
but weren't allowed to trespass onto the beach.

If you want to maximize your diving, consider a liveaboard for Truk.
Otherwise, the Blue Lagoon hotel is nice enough and right on the water.
There are some other places in town, but then you're in town.  Yap is more
rustic.  There's the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, right on the water and complete
with its own dive op, that is my recommendation.  Others prefer the Trader's
Ridge Hotel up the hill - they have a swimming pool and their restaurant is
classier.  There's also a place in town that's really rustic, but I forget
the name.

Palau has plenty of options, from the upscale Palau Pacific Resort that has
beaches and a pool, to the native-style Carolines Resort where you stay in
hand-carved wooden cabins that are a long walk up the hill, to more
motel-like accomodations in town like the mini-chain of Desekel properties.
Don't miss diving Chandelier Cave and taking a snorkel trip to the
aforementioned Jellyfish Lake - both of these can be easily included in a
dive package.

Since you're there a while, you'll really want to get an updated copy of the
Lonely Planet's Micronesia guide.  If you need a good Micronesia-savvy
travel agent, try Trip-N-Tour at www.trip-n-tour.com.
duncankunz@cox.net - 05 Mar 2006 17:00 GMT
Mr. Mossman, thanks for your reply; you have brought up several
interesting memories.

"...the only touristy things to do on Truk are covered in a
several-hour island tour that includes a cave with a long gun at the
end and a tour of the high school that used to be a Japanese
administration building."

The cave with the British 6" gun (taken from Singapore and mounted in
the cave in late 1942) was about 200 yards from where I used to live; I
have been there many times.  The high school you mention (the building
was also the Communications Center) is Francis Xavier High School; I
boarded there in ninth grade (1959-1960).  Both of those places, as
well as some other interesting locations on Moen (called "Weno" now)
are not touristy for most, but you know how old guys returning to the
scenes of their youth are LOL!

"On Yap, you can attend a "cultural presentation" featuring native
dancers, a demonstration of basket weaving, and a taste of local fruit
and betel nut"

I know the Yapese are still the most conservative of the Micronesians,
as they were when I was a punk kid.  I'm looking forward to the Yapese
dances, and showing my wife and kid the stone money.  My bride is all
a-twitter about Yap, since she heard that's one of the best places to
see mantas.  I cannot abide betel-nut, although my wife and son will
doubtless try it.  The lime is just too nasty for me.

"Palau is a little better, offering attractions such as jellyfish lake
and kayaking in the rock islands."

I definitely want to do the jellyfish lake; if nothing else it's a
fantastic example of forced evolution, sort of like blind fish in deep
caves.

"Other than that, Truk is sort of seedy..."

Not to sound too bigoted, Truk had that reputation already when I left
45 years ago, when it was still the Trust Territory of the Pacific
Islands.  Outside of visiting some places where I played as a kid, the
hidden waterfall, and the caves (actually, there're a lot of them) I
hope to spend most of my time in the water.

"Yap, outside the town, is privately owned and you need permission to
stray anywhere (there is some hiking along the old stone paths, but
they're very slippery and it's pretty darn hot and humid to go tramping
through the jungle).  Palau too is mainly privately owned.  I recall
one place where we stopped for lunch where we were allowed to snorkle
around in the shallows but weren't allowed to trespass onto the beach."

Good points to remember; I have spent a total of one day in both Palau
and Yap, and don't remember a blessed thing about them.

"If you want to maximize your diving, consider a liveaboard for Truk.
Otherwise, the Blue Lagoon hotel is nice enough and right on the water.
There are some other places in town, but then you're in town."

I'd love a liveaboard, but we've budgeted $18 k for the entire trip and
we've already dropped $7400 just for the air tickets.  We figure daily
boat dives'd be cheaper; and if the Blue Lagoon is at what used to be
called South Field, (on the side opposite the airfield and facing
Tonoas) I seem to remember some pretty good beaches there for shore
dives.  We have all our gear so we'd only have to rent tanks.  But if
we could do a three-day liveaboard, that'd be phenomenal.

"Yap is more rustic.  There's the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, right on the
water and complete with its own dive op, that is my recommendation.
Others prefer the Trader's Ridge Hotel up the hill - they have a
swimming pool and their restaurant is classier.  There's also a place
in town that's really rustic, but I forget the name."

Good.  I'll contact the Manta Ray Bay Hotel.

"Palau has plenty of options, from the upscale Palau Pacific Resort
that has beaches and a pool, to the native-style Carolines Resort where
you stay in hand-carved wooden cabins that are a long walk up the hill,
to more motel-like accomodations in town like the mini-chain of Desekel
properties. Don't miss diving Chandelier Cave and taking a snorkel trip
to the aforementioned Jellyfish Lake - both of these can be easily
included in a dive package"

This is exactly the kind of information I need.

"Since you're there a while, you'll really want to get an updated copy
of the Lonely Planet's Micronesia guide.  If you need a good
Micronesia-savvy travel agent, try Trip-N-Tour at www.trip-n-tour.com."

I've already got my plane tickets, but I will contact Trip-n-Tour, and
will get the Lonely Planet book this week.

Mr Mossman, you are a man among men!  Many thanks for your great
information!

Kindest regards,

Duncan Kunz

duncankunz@cox.net
duncan.z.kunz@boeing.com
Mesa Arizona USA
Greg Mossman - 05 Mar 2006 19:24 GMT
> Mr. Mossman, thanks for your reply; you have brought up several
> interesting memories.

> The cave with the British 6" gun (taken from Singapore and mounted in
> the cave in late 1942) was about 200 yards from where I used to live; I
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> are not touristy for most, but you know how old guys returning to the
> scenes of their youth are LOL!

IIRC, we hiked up the hill to the gun after parking near the Chuuk
governor's and the FSM president's houses.  I remember the clothesline out
in front, with the presidential garbs (T-shirts and jeans) hanging from it.
The presidential "limo" was an F-150 pickup.  (On a later trip I actually
did get to meet the President of Palau, but that's a different story)

> I know the Yapese are still the most conservative of the Micronesians,
> as they were when I was a punk kid.  I'm looking forward to the Yapese
> dances, and showing my wife and kid the stone money.  My bride is all
> a-twitter about Yap, since she heard that's one of the best places to
> see mantas.  I cannot abide betel-nut, although my wife and son will
> doubtless try it.  The lime is just too nasty for me.

Cultural dances aren't exactly my favorite pastime, but I definitely prefer
the fire eating and coconut-clad hula girls you get at "authentic" Hawaiian
luaus to the rather monotonous chant & step dancing of the Yapese.  I liked
the old lady doing the chant-singing, though.  She could be transplanted to
a Navajo teepee and you wouldn't know the difference, except that the
natives would be smoking peace pipes instead of chewing betel.

Stone money is fine and dandy, but I really expected that they'd be using it
as currency, not just having it sit in front of their homes as a relic of
the past, useful today only for ceremonial dowries.  So much for my idea of
tossing the DM a few for his tip.

> I definitely want to do the jellyfish lake; if nothing else it's a
> fantastic example of forced evolution, sort of like blind fish in deep
> caves.

All evolution is forced to one extent or another.  I don't believe that they
were forced to give up their nematocytes; more like our appendices, they
atrophied from continual disuse as other characteristics evolved that were
more important for their survival: the toughness needed to withstand the
kicks of too many snorkelers, for example.

> "Other than that, Truk is sort of seedy..."

> Not to sound too bigoted, Truk had that reputation already when I left
> 45 years ago, when it was still the Trust Territory of the Pacific
> Islands.  Outside of visiting some places where I played as a kid, the
> hidden waterfall, and the caves (actually, there're a lot of them) I
> hope to spend most of my time in the water.

"Sort of seedy" was definitely the polite way of putting it.  If all the
rusted beer cans I saw on the side of the road during my 2-hour van tour
were stacked on end, they'd reach to the moon.

I spent most of my time in Truk on the Odyssey, so the town was only a
necessary eyesore for the day preceding our 3 a.m. flight off the island.
The high-school was interesting, with the gym roof repaired after taking a
direct shelling, and foot-thick doors to keep the unruly students in their
places.

> Good points to remember; I have spent a total of one day in both Palau
> and Yap, and don't remember a blessed thing about them.

I understand your wanting to spend time on Truk to revisit your childhood,
but otherwise I believe you'd be better off spending the longer portion of
your trip in Palau.  Sure, Truk has the wrecks, but you'll be limited in
what you can dive by diving a land-based dive op, not to mention limited the
number of dives.  Many of the wrecks require multiple dives since they're so
vast and also rather deep.  Palau has long boat rides to get outside the
reef, but you're at least traveling through the rock islands on the way, not
exactly an eyesore.  Yap is small enough that everything is close by the
dock, especially since the Germans were helpful enough to dredge several
channels through the islands.

One of the highlights of my Truk liveaboard was a midweek surface interval
where we toured one of the islands in the lagoon that had been converted to
a Japanese airbase during WWII.  Unlike the Xavier High, the admin building
on this island (forgive me for forgetting the name, but my Truk coffee table
book is at my real office and I'm at my home office right now) was really
badly damaged, and covered with Chuukese graffiti by many generations of
resentful locals.  What used to be paved airstrip has grown into jungle in
the 60 intervening years.  I'm not sure how accessible the lagoon islets are
from Weno if you're not already on a liveaboard.

> I'd love a liveaboard, but we've budgeted $18 k for the entire trip and
> we've already dropped $7400 just for the air tickets.  We figure daily
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> dives.  We have all our gear so we'd only have to rent tanks.  But if
> we could do a three-day liveaboard, that'd be phenomenal.

> "Yap is more rustic.  There's the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, right on the
> water and complete with its own dive op, that is my recommendation.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> This is exactly the kind of information I need.

> "Since you're there a while, you'll really want to get an updated copy
> of the Lonely Planet's Micronesia guide.  If you need a good
> Micronesia-savvy travel agent, try Trip-N-Tour at www.trip-n-tour.com."
>
> I've already got my plane tickets, but I will contact Trip-n-Tour, and
> will get the Lonely Planet book this week.

Assuming you're flying Continental, which is a good assumption since that's
all there is, you might have been better off trying to do the whole thing as
a package.  When you call Continental Micronesia tours, you get connected to
Trip-n-Tour - they're able to work deals that you just can't find on your
own.  My first trip to Micronesia was a week in Yap, including air from LAX,
seven nights at the Manta Ray Bay Hotel, five two-tank dive days, airport
transfers, and even hotel rooms and transfers for the necessary overnights
in Guam in each direction, all for $2,100 each.  As you've seen, that's
about the cost of the airfare alone.

Still, it's worth calling them to see what sort of dive/hotel packages you
can work out, and they're definitely a font of up-to-date info.  All my
helpful hints are at least a few years old.  If you talk to Mike or Vicki at
Trip-n-Tour, tell 'em I said hi.

> Mr Mossman, you are a man among men!  Many thanks for your great
> information!

Sorry I'm not more helpful about Truk, but we spent all that week on the
liveaboard and it sounds like you already know the place well.  I do recall
the Blue Lagoon (used to be the Continental hotel) having a very nice beach,
but I'm not sure how it would fare as a shore dive.  There's a Japanese
restaurant right outside the gates, plus a decent restaurant in the hotel
complex.  Both have the typically horrible Micronesian service - allow at
least two hours for even the most simple meal, heck you're lucky if you get
your drinks in two hours.

But I do know a bit more about Yap and Palau.  If you have any specific
questions, let me know.
jbeck - 07 Mar 2006 00:38 GMT
A couple of my 'ol buddies and I have discussed the idea of doing a shark
dive in California.

Two of us are fairly strong and/or competant in the open water skills, and
two have limited experience.

Suggestions?  Comments?  Insights?

Thanks!
jbeck - 07 Mar 2006 00:45 GMT
Whoops!

Sorry about that...my bad.

Meant to start a new thread!  I'll do that right now!!!!!

>A couple of my 'ol buddies and I have discussed the idea of doing a shark
>dive in California.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks!
dazed and confuzzed - 07 Mar 2006 02:01 GMT
> A couple of my 'ol buddies and I have discussed the idea of doing a shark
> dive in California.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks!

Can you swim faster than your buddies?

Signature

_______________________________________________________________________________
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3

jbeck - 07 Mar 2006 03:15 GMT
>> A couple of my 'ol buddies and I have discussed the idea of doing a shark
>> dive in California.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> Thanks!
> Can you swim faster than your buddies?

One of them is, uh, a bit portly (which blows me away, as he participates in
those 24 hour indurance races...he has to be the fatest one in the events).
I can swim faster than he.  My strategy is simple...keep him between me and
anything with teeth.  I have no qualms sacraficing him.  Bwaahaahaa!

Just kidding...actually looking for something guided and geared for it.
Personally, I would love to see great whites.
Whistler - 07 Mar 2006 06:26 GMT
> Just kidding...actually looking for something guided and geared for it.
> Personally, I would love to see great whites.

There's an operation that leaves from San Diego, a liveaboard that goes
out for several days at a time.  I think a search engine will turn it up
for you.  Someone on our local diving list reported seeing a great white
on the trip.
chilly - 07 Mar 2006 08:31 GMT
> > Just kidding...actually looking for something guided and geared for it.
> > Personally, I would love to see great whites.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> for you.  Someone on our local diving list reported seeing a great white
> on the trip.

Have you ever considered it?

I'd like to cage dive with great whites . . .I think. :^)
Whistler - 07 Mar 2006 09:00 GMT
>>> Just kidding...actually looking for something guided and geared for it.
>>> Personally, I would love to see great whites.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Have you ever considered it?

Not really seriously, no.  There are lots of things on my wish list
above that.

> I'd like to cage dive with great whites . . .I think. :^)

We had two GWS sightings in La Jolla last summer, no cages required.
One guy saw a tail on a night dive in the kelp and one free-diver saw
one cruising his favorite lobster reef.

Anyone who doubted their reports probably changed their mind when they
saw this picture: http://www.divebums.com/week/Sep06-2005/index.html

But realistically, most divers around here are more afraid of these
mantis shrimp, affectionately called ``thumb splitters'':
http://www.divebums.com/week/
(probably will get moved to
http://www.divebums.com/week/2006/Feb27-2006/index.html)

Every time they are mentioned on the list, a dozen people come out with
stories of getting their fingers cut open.   I found myself sitting at
my desk with my thumbs tucked inside tightly curled fingers while
reading the latest round. My buddy got charged by one.  The memory still
gives him the willies.
chilly - 07 Mar 2006 09:20 GMT
> > "Whistler" <whiNstOler@sSan.rPr.cAomM> wrote in message
> >
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Anyone who doubted their reports probably changed their mind when they
> saw this picture: http://www.divebums.com/week/Sep06-2005/index.html

Oh, that tugged on some heart strings.

> But realistically, most divers around here are more afraid of these
> mantis shrimp, affectionately called ``thumb splitters'':
> http://www.divebums.com/week/
> (probably will get moved to
> http://www.divebums.com/week/2006/Feb27-2006/index.html)

Maybe you guys should cage dive when they are around, either that or keep
your fingers to yourself.

> Every time they are mentioned on the list, a dozen people come out with
> stories of getting their fingers cut open.   I found myself sitting at
> my desk with my thumbs tucked inside tightly curled fingers while
> reading the latest round. My buddy got charged by one.

What was your buddy doing before he was charged?

> The memory still
> gives him the willies.

I can see that.  I still get a little shock when I think of that queen
trigger at Koh Tao.
chilly - 07 Mar 2006 09:25 GMT
(snip)>
> I can see that.  I still get a little shock when I think of that queen
> trigger at Koh Tao.

Oh my gosh, look at the time I'm posting . . .and me with nary a drop of
alcohol having passed these ever so chaste lips in lo, these many days.
Popeye - 07 Mar 2006 09:40 GMT
> (snip)>
>> I can see that.  I still get a little shock when I think of that queen
>> trigger at Koh Tao.
>
> Oh my gosh, look at the time I'm posting . . .and me with nary a drop of
> alcohol having passed these ever so chaste lips in lo, these many days.

 One day of sobriety doesn't mean you can forget the 12 steps.

 Apologize to Dennis yet?
chilly - 07 Mar 2006 10:49 GMT
> > (snip)>
> >> I can see that.  I still get a little shock when I think of that queen
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>   One day of sobriety doesn't mean you can forget the 12 steps.

Do you have them memorized?  And have you admitted that you were wrong when
you said that whenever I'm posting late, I've been drinking?  I thought you
said you always admit when you are wrong?

>   Apologize to Dennis yet?

And what is it, that according to you, requires an apology?
Popeye - 07 Mar 2006 11:23 GMT
>> > (snip)>
>> >> I can see that.  I still get a little shock when I think of that queen
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> you
> said you always admit when you are wrong?

 When I'm wrong, I'll tell you.

>>   Apologize to Dennis yet?
>
> And what is it, that according to you, requires an apology?

 What a backstabbing bitch.
chilly - 07 Mar 2006 15:53 GMT
> > Do you have them memorized?  And have you admitted that you were wrong
> > when
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>   When I'm wrong, I'll tell you.

Check.

> >>   Apologize to Dennis yet?
> >
> > And what is it, that according to you, requires an apology?
>
>   What a backstabbing bitch.

That's not an answer to that particular question and also the second time
you've slid by it.
Popeye - 07 Mar 2006 16:23 GMT
>> > Do you have them memorized?  And have you admitted that you were wrong
>> > when
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> That's not an answer to that particular question and also the second time
> you've slid by it.

 I've already answered the question, with specific and repetitive cites
that you've specifically and directly acknowledged, maybe twenty times.

 Dennis has commented on it as well, as have others.

 Talk about sliding.

 Or maybe your computer has taken to "dropping posts" like Francis's does
from time to time with remarkable convenience.

 What a cheap, backstabbing bitch.
Whistler - 07 Mar 2006 09:54 GMT
> What was your buddy doing before he was charged?

Looking while getting closer.  At something like 2ft, the shrimp decided
that the best defense was a good offense.
chilly - 07 Mar 2006 10:46 GMT
> > What was your buddy doing before he was charged?
>
> Looking while getting closer.  At something like 2ft, the shrimp decided
> that the best defense was a good offense.

:^)  So what happened then?  Did the shrimp rush him for the 2' and go in
for a nip, or is it just the mere idea that gets the diver finning rapidly
backwards?
Greg Mossman - 07 Mar 2006 16:53 GMT
>> > What was your buddy doing before he was charged?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> for a nip, or is it just the mere idea that gets the diver finning rapidly
> backwards?

I doubt any diver could fin fast enough, backwards or forwards, to escape
the deadly strike of a mantis shrimp.  Even in slo-mo video they move
really, really fast.  I'll let you know when Janna finally gets nailed by
one, hopefully I'll catch it on video.  She's often a bit too inquisitive
(says the guy who was bitten by a horn shark).  Recently fast enough for her
fingers to narrowly miss being amputated by the crush of a sapo bacon's
jaws, but I doubt she would escape a preying mantis.  The problem is that
the buggers burrow into sand, so unless you're lucky enough to spot one in
the open, you have to tease them out with a readily available lure:  your
finger.
Whistler - 08 Mar 2006 17:38 GMT
> one, hopefully I'll catch it on video.  She's often a bit too inquisitive
> (says the guy who was bitten by a horn shark).

Wow.  I'm impressed.  And I've got oatmeal on my keyboard.
Whistler - 08 Mar 2006 03:52 GMT
> :^)  So what happened then?  Did the shrimp rush him for the 2' and go in
> for a nip, or is it just the mere idea that gets the diver finning rapidly
> backwards?

I think it hit him in the chest, but I may be confusing that with
another report from the list.  One woman complained about having a
bruise on her chest for a week...
Benedict Addis - 07 Mar 2006 17:51 GMT
> I can see that.  I still get a little shock when I think of that queen
> trigger at Koh Tao.

Trevor, Tina or one of their offspring?

One of the buggers chased me all the way to the surface a few years ago. Way
more aggressive than the sharks I've met.

Benedict
Matthias Voss - 07 Mar 2006 21:27 GMT
>>I can see that.  I still get a little shock when I think of that queen
>>trigger at Koh Tao.
>
> Trevor, Tina or one of their offspring?
>
> One of the buggers chased me all the way to the surface a few years ago.

Because their No Go area extends in a reverse conical shape!
Escape ( If you feel like calling it so) is done horitontally)

Matthias
Popeye - 07 Mar 2006 09:38 GMT
>>>> Just kidding...actually looking for something guided and geared for it.
>>>> Personally, I would love to see great whites.
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> latest round. My buddy got charged by one.  The memory still gives him the
> willies.

 I saw a clam (or was it a mussel?) kick your butt once. :-)

 Thumb, too, IIRC.
Whistler - 07 Mar 2006 09:57 GMT
>   I saw a clam (or was it a mussel?) kick your butt once. :-)
>
>   Thumb, too, IIRC.

Scallop.  It used jujitsu to turn the awesome force of my knife back
into my thumb.
Greg Mossman - 07 Mar 2006 16:46 GMT
>> > Just kidding...actually looking for something guided and geared for it.
>> > Personally, I would love to see great whites.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> I'd like to cage dive with great whites . . .I think. :^)

It's a long boat ride to Guadalupe Island, about 30 hours or so, and it's
often rough.  There used to be only one boat that would make the trip, the
Horizon, and the charters originally were for scuba diving or free
diving/spearfishing.  When I dove the nearby San Benito islands in 2000, we
were hoping for a side trip to Guadalupe like my shop's charter had done the
year before, but around that time they started spotting too many white
sharks to want to put divers in the water without a cage.  A trip report
posted on their website a few weeks before my trip had a free diver almost
turn into white shark lunch, jumping into the skiff barely in the nick of
time.

Now all the "diving" is done in a cage and several boats offer the
experience in 5-7 day packages.  It's probably pretty damn impressive - I've
talked to plenty of people that have made the trip and see lots of video
footage and photos - but I've found cage diving to be incredibly boring and
wouldn't want to make an entire trip just for 3-5 days sitting in place
watching the same old sharks swim back and forth even if they were huge
white sharks.  Besides, the diving in that part of the Pacific is very
impressive, blowing away our already impressive local island diving IMO.
Too bad they can't put together a trip that combines a few days of diving
the San Benitos with a day or two of white shark cage diving at Guadalupe,
only on overnight (albeit grueling) 75 miles away.

Also, I note that the price has gone up substantially since these cage trips
have become so popular.  An entire week on the Horizon cost $1,695 back in
2000.  Now SD Shark Diving markets ten summer five-day trips at $2,250 pp.
Fuel costs may have risen some, but that and inflation can't explain a $550
increase after lopping off two days.

In any case, it's all moot.  You'd never be able to handle the frigid
72-degree waters down there, unless you perhaps wore some sort of heated
banana.
jbeck - 08 Mar 2006 20:23 GMT
>>> > Just kidding...actually looking for something guided and geared for
>>> > it.
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
> 72-degree waters down there, unless you perhaps wore some sort of heated
> banana.

Greg,

Thanks for the notes.  This kinda of gives me a direction to take a look at.

I must admit, I would think a day dive with a cage would be about all I
would personally be interested in, and like the idea of something that mixes
it up.
Greg Mossman - 08 Mar 2006 21:00 GMT
> Thanks for the notes.  This kinda of gives me a direction to take a look
> at.
>
> I must admit, I would think a day dive with a cage would be about all I
> would personally be interested in, and like the idea of something that
> mixes it up.

See my reply in "Attempt II".  Though we'd all like to see a great white, it
ain't gonna happen for most of us.  You can try spearfishing local waters,
which is how I saw mine, but it's not as fun when you're not in a cage.
However, the blue shark dives are single-day, practically guaranteed shark
sightings, and if you've never seen a shark underwater yet you'll be
impressed enough starting with blue sharks.  The white sharks can wait.

The Farallon Islands (Northern California) might be a spot to consider for a
one-day cage dive with white sharks, though I'm not sure they still run
trips up there due to ecological concerns, and I've heard it can be very
iffy if you see one at all after an entire day of chumming.  They have
similar one-day trips out of Australia and South Africa, but those are
obviously more than a one-day trip when you consider the travel time, and
you still aren't guaranteed sightings like you are in Guadalupe Island.
Dillon Pyron - 07 Mar 2006 03:26 GMT
>> A couple of my 'ol buddies and I have discussed the idea of doing a shark
>> dive in California.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>>
>Can you swim faster than your buddies?

That, my friend, is why you carry both a knife and shears.
Signature

dillon

Could have been is in the past
Could be is in the future
There is only the now

Joe English - 05 Mar 2006 19:08 GMT
> Hi, I'm Duncan, and I just joined this group.  I'm a member of several
> other forums, but some of them, like WetPixel, are pretty daunting for
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> Anyway, if anyone out there has any insights or advice, I'd love to
> hear from you.

Wish I could go - maybe someday - have a great trip there are plenty
here who have experience in the area
morgand@cix.compulink.co.uk - 06 Mar 2006 08:28 GMT
> Anyway, if anyone out there has any insights or advice, I'd love to
> hear from you.

Before i start rambling on about this and that......take a look at our
stay on Yap and our time diving Chuuk......

http://www.seatreker.com/Yap.htm

http://www.seatreker.com/Chuuk%20Lagoon.htm

If there is anything specific i can help with, just ask........

www.seatreker.com
Dave Morgan @ Work in the UK
Don - 06 Mar 2006 13:49 GMT
> Hi, I'm Duncan, and I just joined this group.  I'm a member of several
> other forums, but some of them, like WetPixel, are pretty daunting for
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> Anyway, if anyone out there has any insights or advice, I'd love to
> hear from you.

Cancel your trip pronto and head to the rain soaked paradise of the PNW.
There is an aquarium in Seattle where a octopus eats sharks. Thrills for the
whole family!!!!! Micronesia or PNW..........the choice is obvious.
Schmoe - 06 Mar 2006 14:04 GMT
> Anyway, the reason I'm posting is that my family (wife and 21-year-old
> son) are going to Micronesia from 17 Dec 2006 to 12 Jan 2007.

Would you & your wife considering adopting me? I could be your 43 year old
son that you never wanted. Come on, please?
Steve - 09 Mar 2006 09:30 GMT
>  We've already
> bought plane tickets and will be staying 5 days in Palau, 9 days in
> Truk, 4 days in Yap, and 3 in Majuro (the rest of the days involve
> flying).

Too bad you already bought your tickets, both for cost and itinerary. Your schedule
may be different than ours would have been, but when we considered Truk and Palau we
decided that there was too much hassle, mostly in the form of a ridiculous layover,
to stay both east and west of Guam on the same trip. Like Greg, I think more time in
Palau would have been a better idea, though not being that big on wrecks my interest
in Truk is probably a lot less than that of the average diver. Our total trip was 24
days, with 5 in Yap and 15 in Palau, and an overnight in Hawaii on our way there. For
you it's a moot point now, but doing it again we'd stay in Hawaii on the way home.
The jet lag nearly killed us, leaving us damn near useless for a week after getting
home. OTOH, staying in Hawaii meant leaving a day earlier than our flight to Guam,
which gave us a cushion in case we had a weather delay getting out of the northeast.

Besides Trip 'n Tour I'd suggest looking into Island Dreams Travel
(www.divetrip.com/). FWIW, their wholesale cost for Newark to Yap to Palau to Newark
was just under $1800 when we were booking in Summer '03. Also flying to Truk would
have added a bit, so your airfares may not be that much more than what you'd have
gotten with a package deal, unless perhaps you're taking the island hopper route on
one leg, rather than two out and back hops from Guam.

>I like
> photography, so I'd rather stay at around 30-40 feet; my wife likes
> pelagics, so she likes to hang out at 100-120 ft.  So we'll both have
> to compormise!  Obviously, with 9 diving days on Truk, we plan on a LOT
> of wreck diving.

Yap is most famous for mantas, but we happened to get almost completely skunked
during our stay. A tribal property dispute that kept us away from Mi'il Channel for 2
of the 4 dive days didn't help. We still had an outstanding time, as the rest of the
diving in Yap is excellent. My suggestion is to make sure that you get a dive at
Vertigo, which is 15 minutes outside of Mi'il Channel. That was our very first dive
in the Pacific, but I think it would have been magical even if we had done Palau
first. We still consider it to have been our single best dive of the trip. My logbook
entry for the viz was something like "125+" but my friend insists it was easily 200
feet, and the water was some amazing shade of purple that I've never seen before. Of
course I can't promise you'll find the same thing, but for us it's like the stories
about why people smoke crack. The first time is such an incredible high that you'll
try again and again hoping it will be even half as good. We started the dive by
seeing a school of 30+ sharks, and the wall drops to well over 200', which should
make your wife happy. The proximity to Mi'il Channel means there's also a chance of
seeing mantas in good viz. I'd also suggest making sure you get to the southwest
sites. Without pulling out my logbook I think Yap Caverns and Lionfish Wall are the
ones I'm thinking of, but we may also have done Magic Kingdom and Spanish Wall. The
wall in that area isn't as dramatic as Vertigo, but IIRC these were good places to
stay a bit shallower. Both of our night dives stayed inside the bay at the same area,
perhaps a mile from the dock (we used MRB and Yap divers). At first I was
disappointed that we weren't headed out to a "real" dive site, but we had an
excellent time both nights. I maxed at just over 40' on the first night and just
under 40' on the second, and spent 90 and 91 minutes. The viz was probably only 40
feet or so, but this was a place to be looking closely. We lost count of the
lionfish, anemones and anemone fish, pipefish, and others.

With such a short stay in Palau you may have some tough choices. If you don't get
your fill of mantas in Yap, Palau offers a second chance, though you mostly hear
about the wall and drift diving. German Channel is one likely spot (IIRC we saw 4),
but Devilfish City was better for us. We didn't see any on the first dive but
snorkeled with several during the SI, watching the looping that is typical when
they're feeding. On the 2nd dive we saw 3 mantas, including 15 minutes of watching
one at a cleaning station. That one was all of 8 to 10 feet from me and one wingtip
came within 2 feet of my head when it finally moved off. Low air sent us up while
another one was still hanging out. The downside of Devilfish City is that the viz
isn't nearly as good as the wall dives (which should be expected when you're looking
for big filter feeders), so if you don't see (m)any mantas it may not be a memorable
dive. It's also in the opposite direction from the other sites and a bit further
away, which means you'll have to ask ahead of time and have a reasonable boatload of
interested divers.

The most famous site in Palau is Blue Corner and it can be an excellent site, but
with only a few days I might be willing to miss it in favor of other places. That may
be an easier choice sonce I've already done about 4 dives there. The reef at Blue
Corner starts at about 40', so when you get low on air or NDL the dive is basically
over. Other sites offer the chance to finish shallower and have a longer dive. Big
Dropoff is likely to be your first site since it's one of the easier ones and gives
the DM's a chance to watch you before going to a more advanced site. There's good
stuff right up to the surface, so it can be a nice long dive if you'd like. It's a
very good wall dive as well, though not as much chance of pelagics as Blue Corner.
Ulong Channel is another excellent site that is fairly shallow. I forget if the
outside end has anything really shallow, but on an incoming tide you can finish right
at the surface for another long dive. Our 2nd dive at Ulong was one of our favorite
dives in Palau, possibly even better than the mantas at Devilfish City. We did a dive
at Shark City that was easily our worst and shortest dive in Palau, but of course all
thinsg are relative, and one of our dives had to be the worst. Our DM somehow got
fixated on swimming in the direction we started out, which ended up being against the
current. Since my wife and I were at the back of the group and nobody else was
abandoning him we went along too. We worked moderately hard, hoovered our air, and
then had to ascend after only 35 minutes or so a reef that was at 50'. We did see
plenty of good stuff, and it would have been a far better dive if we'd gone with the
flow. That may mean my opinion of the site isn't objective, and by now you've
probably noticed that I prefer sites where I can have some pretty reef up to the
safety stop. With only a few days for diving, though, I would argue against Shark
City being one of them.

For night dives we went to Short Dropoff and the Buoy 6 wreck (we also did a very
nice day dive there). Both were excellent, and the Buoy 6 wreck was much better than
the helmet Wreck which seems to be popular for reasons I don't understand.

We dove with Sam's Tours and definitely recommend them. We'd also be more than happy
to dive with the same DM despite the Shark City dive. Your budget may make other
accommodations preferable, but we stayed at the Palau Pacific Resort. As with other
real estate matters, it's best features are location, location, and location. It
claims to be a 4 star resort but I wasn't impressed by our room. I've stayed at Super
8's that were just as good on the inside. Outside is what makes PPR a great place.
The grounds are very nice, but the beach (really the stuff just off the beach) is
easily the best thing about the place. If you haven't already seen them elsewhere you
can see your first giant clams right at the hotel, and there's plenty of other good
stuff. Because it's a long boat ride to most sites you won't have much daylight away
from the dive boat, so I'd suggest making a point to spend some time snorkeling after
dinner if you stay at PPR.

Signature

Steve

The above can be construed as personal opinion in the absence of a reasonable
belief that it was intended as a statement of fact.

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