Spent 3 dive days in Coz the week before last prior to ferrying over to
Playa and heading up to Cancun for a few more days. Here's a report on the
Coz part of my trip:

Above Ground: Trees with full growth are nowhere to be found. Most trees
have either been cut down to stumps or are just beginning to have regrowth.
The flora damage to the island from Wilma is extensive to say the least.
Many buildings, particularly those directly on the beachfront are destroyed
or experienced significant damage. El Presidente, for example, looks like a
war zone. They are a long, long way from reopening for sure. However, there
is a great deal of building (new) and rebuilding active on the island
everywhere. New resort is being built near the south int'l pier and it looks
to be HUGE. The people of Cozumel are happy and are picking up where they
left off before Wilma. I'm not sure how much Mexican gov't help they are
getting but I'd bet it's far less than New Orleans. I give them alot of
credit.

Underwater:
From shallow reefs to the deep (i.e. Punta Sur), sand covers everything. The
landscape is changed. Significant coral damage shallower reefs while the
deeper walls mostly have just the sand cover. Fish life both big and small
is still excellent. Many turtles, cuda, sand sharks, rays (eagle & s. sting)
and all the usual smaller suspects abound. Saw a very nice splendid toadfish
and at night, a fish I wasn't familiar with that sat on the sand in a cobra
like position, about 12-14" long (need to look that one up). Conclusively,
coral not good, fish life very good. Dove Punta Sur, San Francisco
Wall/Reef, Yuncab, Palancar Wall and a few others.

Dive Operator:
Went with Dive With Martin and was very pleased. Very courteous, fairly
priced, good DM's & captains. Definitely recommend them to anyone. I checked
their boats for oxygen and 1st aid and all looked good. They are operating
in temporary digs at the Int'l Pier and it works out ok. I met many
different divers their who have dived with this operator many times over the
years which, to me, is an excellent sign.

Hotel:
Stayed downtown at Vista Del Mar. Initially made the mistake of taking an
street/oceanfront room which was too loud at night (main drag). They
courteously moved me to a room on the backside of the hotel which was much
bigger, completely quiet and I was happy. The morning coffee/buns sucked,
recommend passing on that and going out but surely isn't a reason not to
stay there. Paid $84/night for the room, they were very pleasant, easy
access and nice to not have to drive anywhere. I recommend it if you're
looking for a pure dive experience and don't need beachfront and other hotel
luxury extras.

Taxis anywhere on the island are $1.50 for locals, $3-4 for divers and $6+
for cruise tourons. I generally paid the drivers $3-4 because they need the
money.

In conclusion, I went to Coz this trip because I was meeting my family later
in the week in Cancun so it was a convienent excuse to dive a few days.
Sadly, this island is a few years at least from returning to quality diving.
The sand overcast on everything is evident and removes most of the coral
colors. I cannot recommend a dedicated trip to Cozumel for diving until
things are reported improved and it will likely be sometime before I return.
I had a terrific time, enjoyed the diving very much but it's a shadow of
it's former self and, for better or worse, there are plentiful choices for
excellent Carribean diving elsewhere. If I was in the area for other
reasons, I would certainly dive Coz though.