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Scuba Forum / General / July 2005SB105 electronic scheme
Hi, I'm an electronic student at the University of Bordeaux 1, France. I'm looking for the electronic scheme of the Nikonos SB-105 to add a laser beam for strobe postionnning. If you have such plan, I would greatly appreciate if you could send it to me. Best regards, Christophe ______________________________________________________________ Université Club Bordeaux 1 Section Plongée http://www.ucb1plongee.org > Hi, > > I'm an electronic student at the University of Bordeaux 1, France. I'm > looking for the electronic scheme of the Nikonos SB-105 to add a laser > beam for strobe postionnning. If you have such plan, I would greatly > appreciate if you could send it to me. http://manuals4less.com/nikonos.htm You could try these guys, and see if the repair manual contains the schematics. Laser positioning for underwater photography... this will be interesting. Especially with red laser ;-) /m >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >Laser positioning for underwater photography... this will be >interesting. Especially with red laser ;-) Assuming your target is no more than 15 feet away, this shouldn't be a problem. And at depth, with red filtered out, it should really show up. >/m  Signaturedillon Linux, it's not just an OS, it's a way of life. And a damn fine one, at that. The laser will show in the pictures. Somebody made a widget with two lasers to let you set the distance with extension tubes without having the dang goal posts get in the way of where you want to put the camera. The laser would show in the pictures. And more importantly, with wide angle, if you point the strobe right at the subject, you'll get lots of backscatter because you are also lighting the water between the subject and the camera. And why would you need the schematic if you were just adding a laser? Why should it be electically tied to the flash? > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Université Club Bordeaux 1 Section Plongée > http://www.ucb1plongee.org > And why would you need the schematic if you were just adding a laser? Why > should > it be electically tied to the flash? How about, so that you can turn the laser off when the strobe is about to fire? Cpt. Dale Bennett > > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Cpt. Dale Bennett Exactly ! The idea is to shut down the laser just before the flash beam. That's why we need the electronic sheme of the SB-105 strobe (electronic contains many proprietary components). At this time, I didn't get any answer about this post. It seems dificult to find this scheme. Regardsn, Christophe ______________________________________________________________ Sealifecenter.com / Welcome to the Fish World Underwater photography and biology Web : http://www.sealifecenter.com > Exactly ! > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > At this time, I didn't get any answer about this post. It seems dificult > to find this scheme. since the sync cord can provide that signal, I don't see why you need to get at the internal circuitry. a (relatively )simple "splitter" to a circuit that catches the "fire" signal and shuts down the laser is all you need. you can use either a timer to keep the laser off for a few seconds or the "ready" signal. see ikelite.com for pinouts of the cords. If you trigger on the "FIRE" signal, you better be able to shut down the laser immediately (10-50 us max), and if you just turn off power to the laser, that's probably not good enough because it may continue to run for a bit on power stored in in its caps. The "READY" signal won't work because it may not go off at all when closeup in TTL mod, and even if it does go off, it won't be until the strobe has already been on for a while. But once again: If you point the strobe right at the subject, your wide-angle shots will hve excessive backscatter. >> Exactly ! >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > timer to keep the laser off for a few seconds or the "ready" signal. > see ikelite.com for pinouts of the cords. > If you trigger on the "FIRE" signal, you better be able to shut down the > laser immediately (10-50 us max), and if you > just turn off power to the laser, that's probably not good enough because it > may continue to run for a bit > on power stored in in its caps. Well I'll tell you what - if you can tell me a way, from inside the strobe, to figure out when to shut off the laser BEFORE the strobe receives the trigger signal, I'll by you a boat dive. It takes a little while for the strobe to fire too you know, Likely enough to get the laser shut down, and even if it's on for a micro sec. or two after the shutter opens it won't show on the image. Many people make a Remote TTL trigger that works fine both tiggering and shutting a strobe off remotly and keeping well inside exposure limits, I see no reason the same can't be done with a solid state laser. > The "READY" signal won't work because it may not go off at all when closeup > in TTL mod, and > even if it does go off, it won't be until the strobe has already been on for > a while. the ready (or 'Confidence' signal) would be (maybe, this is simply speculation) for turning the laser back on, not off. I don't think it'll work, I prefer a timer, but it's an option that can be explored. > But once again: If you point the strobe right at the subject, your > wide-angle shots will hve > excessive backscatter. so we have decided it won't work for wide angle, big deal, turn it off manually Before you shoot WA or ignore it, this is just you pissin on the idea and has no real merit in the discussion. >> If you trigger on the "FIRE" signal, you better be able to shut down the >> laser immediately (10-50 us max), and if you [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > strobe, to figure out when to shut off the laser BEFORE the strobe > receives the trigger signal, I'll by you a boat dive. Well, proponenets of Star Trek will tell you about tachyons, particles that travel backwards in time. Therefore they hit the target before you've fired them. So, the required circuitry must have something to do with tachyons. Recalibrate sensors, Mr Data! > It takes a little while for the strobe to fire too you know, Likely enough > to get the laser shut down, and even if it's on for a micro sec. or two > after the shutter opens it won't show on the image. Many people make a > Remote TTL trigger that works fine both tiggering and shutting a strobe > off remotly and keeping well inside exposure limits, I see no reason the > same can't be done with a solid state laser. Absolutely. Who said you need to discharge capacitors anyway? Just use the signal to interrupt power to the laser tube AFTER the capacitors . . . Anyway, how does the rest of world manage to take pictures WITHOUT laser-guided zoom lenses, eh? Ken I didn't say you needed to turn the laser off before the strobe received the trigger signal, only that it needed to be turned off very quickly thereafter, and that just disconnecting the power source from the laser might well not be quick enough. The SB-105 has a much wider beam (20 mm w/o diffuser, IIRC) than the lenses typically used for macro photography (28mm to 105 mm, occasionally 200 mm), AND the strobe is usually farther from the subject than the film plane, so, for macro, the strobe only needs to be pointed in generally the right direction, especially if you put the diffusers on (15 mm coverage), which gives a nice sof t light. Also, with macro, it's really easy to see where the strobes are pointed because the whole rig is in your field of vision (not true for wide-angle with nice long arms). One more thought: If you have two strobes, different colored lasers would be a good idea. Red on the left, Green on the right, would match boat running lights. >> If you trigger on the "FIRE" signal, you better be able to shut down the >> laser immediately (10-50 us max), and if you [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > manually Before you shoot WA or ignore it, this is just you pissin on the > idea and has no real merit in the discussion. > I didn't say you needed to turn the laser off before the strobe received the > trigger [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > a good idea. > Red on the left, Green on the right, would match boat running lights. I built a laser system in 1998 for macro use. It wasn't for aiming the strobes however, it was for NonSLR cameras to find the correct focus /center point. ( I got the idea from someone who built a similar rig that used the small 2 AAA pen lite flashlights, that never worked becuase of beam spread). The sytem worked pretty well, on dry ground, I never got it out of the crude prototype stage and sealed up for underwater testing. And yes it is more than possible to shut the lasers off in time. It didn't frame the shot for you like a wire macro framer will but it didn't scare the hell out of the subject either. It would also have given better choices of composition than a wire framer could. Another concern at the time was shining 2 lasers into a fishes eyes from that small distance. I must admit I don't see the need for this strobe aiming system - that's why they have modeling lites in strobes. If a SB105 doesn't have a modeling lite than scrap it for one that does. IMHO the SB105 is not that great a strobe as it is. |
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