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Scuba Forum / General / October 2003

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What do you do in order to take underwater pictures with true colors?

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DJ Kim - 28 Oct 2003 06:24 GMT
Hi!

My wife and I did our first dives in the French Polynesia.
Although the dives fully lived up to our expectation, the pictures we
took underwater with our Sony DSC-P10 (5.1 megapixels) digital cameral
did not.
We were well aware that cameras do not pick up red color, so used
flash each time. Nonetheless, the pictures looked still very dull.

What do you have to do in order to take underwater pictures with true
colors? (provided that we dive at around 60 feet deep with good to
excellent visibility)
We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.
Jammer Six - 28 Oct 2003 06:45 GMT
> What do you have to do in order to take underwater pictures with true
> colors?

Take your subjects out of the water, and then take the pictures.

Signature

"We're going to rush the hijackers."
    -Jeremy Glick, aboard United Airlines flight 93, September 11, 2001

David Scarlett - 28 Oct 2003 07:22 GMT
Jammer Six <jammer@invalid.oz.net> wrote in news:bnkvpo$dv5$1@
216.39.146.232 :

> Take your subjects out of the water, and then take the pictures.

Unfortunately some wrecks are a bit heavy for that... ;-)

Signature

David Scarlett

dscarlett@_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
_ _ _ _ _ optusnet.com.au

rnf2 - 28 Oct 2003 09:39 GMT
> Jammer Six <jammer@invalid.oz.net> wrote in news:bnkvpo$dv5$1@
> 216.39.146.232 :
>
> > Take your subjects out of the water, and then take the pictures.
>
> Unfortunately some wrecks are a bit heavy for that... ;-)

Didn't stop them with the Titanic.

rhys
Grumman-581 - 28 Oct 2003 07:51 GMT
> What do you have to do in order to take
> underwater pictures with true colors?
> (provided that we dive at around 60 feet
> deep with good to excellent visibility)
> We used ample flash but I guess the built-in
> flash was not enough.

Well, during the Bikini Atoll experiments, I understand that they got very
good color definition, but of course, they would have been using Kodachrome
25 with that sort of 'flash' unit...
H. Huntzinger - 28 Oct 2003 12:18 GMT
> Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

Its hard to say "what went wrong" without being able to see any of the
photo's you're talking about.

Generally, the most common problem is a predominantly monochromatic blue
image.  This means that the scene is being lit by ambient light (which
due to the depth, has had its red filtered out) instead of by your
strobe (flash).

The short answer is that you need more strobe visible in the picture.  
This means some combination of:

- get closer to your subject
- get a bigger strobe

Keep in mind that if you're too far away, the biggest strobe in the
world won't be any good.  This is because the strobe's light is being
filtered by water as it travels from the strobe to the subject, and then
after its bounced off the subject, all the way back to the camera.  
Thus, if its 5ft from you to your subject, your strobe's light had to
travel 10ft.

As a rule of thumb, get closer to your subject...3ft is a good value to
shoot for, and definitely no more than 6ft (even 5ft is pushing it).

Also, find out what the minimum focus distance is of your camera.  If
for example its 1.0ft, try shooting at 1.5ft.

-hh
Lee Bell - 28 Oct 2003 12:36 GMT
> My wife and I did our first dives in the French Polynesia.
> Although the dives fully lived up to our expectation, the pictures we
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> excellent visibility)
> We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

It takes a powerful flash and you have to be within 5 feet of the subject,
preferably closer.

Water filters red light out in 10 feet.  Next comes yellow and finally blue.
The more powerful the flash, the more light will get through.  Your built in
flash will work only if you're very close.  The reason you have to be no
more than 5 feet from the subject is that the light leaves te flash, travels
to the subject and returns.  Light from a flash that's 5 feet from the
subject, travels 10 feet before entering the lens of a camera.

Lee
Jerome Meekings - 28 Oct 2003 15:20 GMT
> What do you have to do in order to take underwater pictures with true
> colors? (provided that we dive at around 60 feet deep with good to
> excellent visibility)
> We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

try
http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/uwphoto/page/01-e.html

>replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
de Valois - 28 Oct 2003 15:30 GMT
DJ Kim left this mess on 27 Oct 2003 21:24:39 -0800 for The Way to clean up:

>Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>excellent visibility)
>We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

First, you have to give the colors a lie detector test to be sure in fact they
are truthful...

Then you go out and buy a strobe.

Tao te Carl

"It takes a village to have an idiot." - Carl (c) 2003
James Connell - 28 Oct 2003 16:19 GMT
> Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> excellent visibility)
> We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

underwater the internal flash is only good out to about 2' on most
cameras. you need to add an external stobe Inon, sea&sea,ikelite make
good ones for your camera - make sure to get one that is compatable with
a digital camera's "preflash" - standard strobes for nikonoses and SLRs
will not work with many digitals.
the #1 rule for UW shooting is "get close, when you think you're close
enough - get closer still".

if you take a "white" card ( a small writing slate works well) down with
you and set the wight balance useing the card you can get pretty good
color in the pix, but then you can't use the flash -  it doesn't have
the corected color and will give you very red high lites.
here's a photoshop fix for the loss of red in a shot - it works best if
there is little or no red in the original.

http://share.studio.adobe.com/axAssetDetailSubmit.asp?aID=8419&back=http%3A%2F%2
Fshare%2Estudio%2Eadobe%2Ecom%2FaxBrowseProductType%2Easp%3Ft%3D5

nospam@all.please.net - 28 Oct 2003 20:39 GMT
> > Hi!
> >
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> the #1 rule for UW shooting is "get close, when you think you're close
> enough - get closer still".

Rule #1+/-0.1 :  Take lots of pictures.  Some might be good.
Elliott Goldstein - 29 Oct 2003 22:37 GMT
i have used the sony P-7 on my last couple of dives. i bought the underwater
(red) filter for it. that restores some color, but if you are taking scene
shots then even a strobe won't give you enough light and you will have to
edit you pics. i used photoshop elements 2 and got what i think are great
results. you can see my pics at

http://www.public.asu.edu/~elliotg/
elliott

> > > Hi!
> > >
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Rule #1+/-0.1 :  Take lots of pictures.  Some might be good.

--
Elliott S. Goldstein
School of Life Science
Cellular, Molecular and Bioscience Program
Arizona State University
Tempe, AZ 85287-4501
phone: 480-965-7176
fax: 480-965-6899
e.goldstein@asu.edu
Pete S. - 29 Oct 2003 23:19 GMT
>i have used the sony P-7 on my last couple of dives. i bought the underwater
>(red) filter for it. that restores some color, but if you are taking scene
>shots then even a strobe won't give you enough light and you will have to
>edit you pics. i used photoshop elements 2 and got what i think are great

Red filters need to change density with ambient light levels and depth
in order to provide good colour correction.

You need to dive with a grey or white reference card and correct the
colour balance in order to compensate for loss of red.

Pete S.
Elliott Goldstein - 30 Oct 2003 23:32 GMT
i am really new at this and i have seen some discussion on color balance and a
white reference card but i assumed that it was for macro, not for distance shots
which will vary. am i wrong about the white balance for different distances?  i
bought the sony because it is a simple point and shoot and i didn't want to have
to change settings under water. thanks
elliott

> >i have used the sony P-7 on my last couple of dives. i bought the underwater
> >(red) filter for it. that restores some color, but if you are taking scene
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Pete S.

--
Elliott S. Goldstein
School of Life Science
Cellular, Molecular and Bioscience Program
Arizona State University
Tempe, AZ 85287-4501
phone: 480-965-7176
fax: 480-965-6899
e.goldstein@asu.edu
Pete S. - 31 Oct 2003 00:50 GMT
>i am really new at this and i have seen some discussion on color balance and a
>white reference card but i assumed that it was for macro, not for distance shots
>which will vary. am i wrong about the white balance for different distances?  i
>bought the sony because it is a simple point and shoot and i didn't want to have
>to change settings under water. thanks
>elliott

With Macro, the shots you take have very little water between the
camera, the strobe, and the subject. So the colours come out quite
nice.

With depth the red/blue changes. The deeper you go the bluer (less
red) it gets. So the camera needs to compensate for this.

With horizontal distance the light has further to travel from the
subject to the camera and so ...... the bluer (less red) it gets.

So if you go deeper and further from the subject you can be very blue
very quickly. Try taking wide angle shots of deep wrecks!!

One way round this on digital is to correct the colour balance in the
scene by altering the colour balance of the camera to compensate. The
camera may do this automatically, it may not. You may wish to do it
manually anyway. Or you may choose to turn it off altogether and
correct the picture on the PC, post dive. But thern you may just find
you need to store a large "raw data" file.

White or grey card "standards" will only give a setting that is
correct for the distance you hold the card away from the camera, and
the depth you are at. If you move up or down, or change the distance
from the subject, your white balance setting must also change.

Or you could just stick to snapshots........

Me? I've not gone digital yet, I can't project them. I just take deep
wreck pictures on fast (1600 - 3200 ASA) B&W in ambient light, with a
housed SLR. And macro of pretty fishes.....

Pete S.
Dan Bracuk - 31 Oct 2003 06:29 GMT
Pete S. <> pounded away at his keyboard resulting in:
:Me? I've not gone digital yet, I can't project them.

If you buy a projector for your computer, it would be easy.
Expensive, but easy.

Dan Bracuk
If at first you don't succeed, you run the risk of failure.
The Best of rec.scuba http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/RecScuba/
Pete S. - 31 Oct 2003 14:36 GMT
>Pete S. <> pounded away at his keyboard resulting in:
>:Me? I've not gone digital yet, I can't project them.
>
>If you buy a projector for your computer, it would be easy.
>Expensive, but easy.

£25k was the last estimate for a digital projector that could match
analogue (slide) projection. A "high end" consumer digital projector
is only going to give 1200 pixels horizontal. If you project it 2m
wide, that would give each pixel as being 1.6mm. Which is not good
enough. And even that digital would be £800. Too many £ for not enough
result.

Pete S.
Elliott Goldstein - 31 Oct 2003 23:42 GMT
thanks for the info. i am going to go on one of the Sony forums and see if anyone
knows how much the camera will compensate. i do know that with the red filter, the
pictures are 'bluer' than without, but still need a little touching up.
elliott

> >i am really new at this and i have seen some discussion on color balance and a
> >white reference card but i assumed that it was for macro, not for distance shots
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>
> Pete S.

--
Elliott S. Goldstein
School of Life Science
Cellular, Molecular and Bioscience Program
Arizona State University
Tempe, AZ 85287-4501
phone: 480-965-7176
fax: 480-965-6899
e.goldstein@asu.edu
Dan Bracuk - 30 Oct 2003 03:36 GMT
Elliott Goldstein <e.goldstein@asu.edu> pounded away at his keyboard
resulting in:
:i have used the sony P-7 on my last couple of dives. i bought the underwater
:(red) filter for it. that restores some color, but if you are taking scene
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
:
:http://www.public.asu.edu/~elliotg/

They're ok.

Dan Bracuk
If at first you don't succeed, you run the risk of failure.
The Best of rec.scuba http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/RecScuba/
RayC - 28 Oct 2003 20:00 GMT
> Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> excellent visibility)
> We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

It sounds like you are using the built in flash on the
camera.  An internal flash is too close to the lens and will
cause "backscatter", an illumination of the suspended junk
in the water, to appear in your pictures. It should give you
fairly good results to about 12 inches away when you are
taking close up shots.

After that, you need a good external underwater strobe to
fully illuminate your subject and get good colors. Even
then, you are only going to get good results (depending on
the clarity of the water) to about 9 feet away from the
subject. Plus, you need to place the strobe as far from the
lens as you can to minimize backscatter. You should be able
to find plenty of strobes that work like slaves and can be
triggered by your internal flash.

Just my $.02

Signature

Ray Contreras
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Webmonkey for:
http://www.ossystems.com
http://www.bobs-garage.com
http://www.rayzplace.com

Karl Denninger - 29 Oct 2003 02:42 GMT
>Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>excellent visibility)
>We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

Shoot in "Raw" mode and use something like Photoshop to clean them up
(with the RAW plug-in) or get some real, external flash units - or both.

--
Signature

Karl Denninger (karl@denninger.net) Internet Consultant & Kids Rights Activist
http://www.denninger.net    Tired of spam at your company?  LOOK HERE!
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Dan Bracuk - 29 Oct 2003 03:14 GMT
dj_google@daum.net (DJ Kim) pounded away at his keyboard resulting in:
:My wife and I did our first dives in the French Polynesia.
:Although the dives fully lived up to our expectation, the pictures we
:took underwater with our Sony DSC-P10 (5.1 megapixels) digital cameral
:did not.
:We were well aware that cameras do not pick up red color, so used
:flash each time. Nonetheless, the pictures looked still very dull.

Stand closer to the fish and use a strobe.

Dan Bracuk
If at first you don't succeed, you run the risk of failure.
The Best of rec.scuba http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/RecScuba/
chilly - 29 Oct 2003 03:33 GMT
> dj_google@daum.net (DJ Kim) pounded away at his keyboard resulting in:
> :My wife and I did our first dives in the French Polynesia.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Stand closer to the fish and use a strobe.

Should they stand in the sand or on the coral?
Dennis \(Icarus\) - 29 Oct 2003 18:40 GMT
> Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> excellent visibility)
> We used ample flash but I guess the built-in flash was not enough.

The built-in flash is not enough. Further, that flash can serve to
illuminate particles in the water.

You'll want to get an external strobe.

Dennis
 
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