Trip Dates 2004-06-05 - 2004-06-20
Summary
This was our second trip to Fiji. The trip report for the first one is
available at www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/Trips/Fiji.htm. We did the same
basic itinerary, fly to Fiji, stay at Woidroka Bay, sail on Aggressor,
go home. Some of the details are different.
The Providers
Air Canada www.aircanada.ca
Air Pacific www.airpacific.com
Woidroka Bay Resort www.dive-surf-fiji.com.fj
Fiji Aggressor II www.aggressor.com
Tanoa International Hotel www.tanoahotels.com
The Travel
Going to Fiji wasn't too bad - roughly 20 hours door to door. Coming
back was expected to be bad, and it was worse. Crossing the
Interational Date Line meant that we got to make two overnight flights
on the same day. Unfotunately the first one was 5 hours late.
Fortunately we had an 8 hour scheduled layover, so we still caught our
2nd flight.
For the trip back, we took a room at the Tanoa International Hotel for
the afternoon. Money well spent in my opinion. We had planned to find
a room in LA for our layover, but didn't have to because of the late
flight.
Woidroka Bay Resort
Woidroka Bay has some redeeming qualities, but one bad feature that
wrecks everything.
The place had changed quite a bit since our last visit. The main
buiding was now completely enclosed, there were two more bures, and a
larger fleet of boats. The hotel part was basic, but nice.
On our last trip, we were the only guests. On this one there were lots
of surfers, but we were the only divers. So, we shared the boat with
the surfers. We would go out to the reef, toss out the surfers, do two
dives, recover the surfers, and go home. Watching the surfers during
the surface interval was quite entertaining.
The diving from Woidroka Bay was quite nice. In terms of what there
was to see, it was quite similar to the sites we dove the following
week. The seascape was different though. This was reef and walls,
Aggressor dives were mainly pinnacles.
So what was the bad part? The owner. He had only recently purchased
the place and he was a miser. He was more interested in pinching
pennies than he was in ensuring his guests enjoyed themselves. A
specific example is that one day he had 3 divers (two tanks each), and
6 surfers going out, and he assigned one of the smaller boats. He
eventually relented, but only after considerable complaining from both
us and the surfers. So, if you are going to Fiji, stay somewhere else.
Fiji Aggressor II
The Fiji Aggressor II is the boat formerly known as the Sere-Ni-Wa.
It's a full size liveaboard that only takes 10 passengers. The
staterooms were spacious with lots of storage space. The salon &
dining room were sufficient. The dive was a little small, but not too
crowded.
Depending on the current and dive site, we either dove from the back
of the big boat, or took a skiff to the start point and drifted to the
big boat. Underwater navigation was a bit different than most
liveaboards I have dove from. The captain would anchor the boat in the
deep sand, with the stern close to the pinnacle we were diving. This
meant that at the end of the dive, there was no anchor line to use as
a reference point, you had to find the boat. On one dive, the wind
shifted and the boat blew about 100 yards away from the group of
pinncacles so we had to swim a bit.
The Diving
For the most part it was pretty good, not spectacular but pretty good.
There had been a lot of rain in the weeks leading up to our trip. In
fact, it rained every day we were at the resort. Perhaps for this
reason, the water was siltier than it was on our earlier trip. The viz
was still pretty good though. The water temperature ranged from 77 -
79 F.
For those who have never dove the Indo Pacific area, it is remarkably
different than the Caribbean. The fish population is totally
different, and the soft corals are much more colourful. I have been
there before, so it is getting harder to impress me.
If You Go, You Should Know
American money has value on the Aggressor. All boat fees, which
includes the Value Added Tax that everyone pays is discounted 20% if
you pay US cash.
The departure tax may or may not be included in the cost of your plane
tickets. Ours were.
The Nadi airport does not have a courtesy phone to nearby hotels and
rental car agencies like you would find in North American Airports.
Instead they have travel agents that can find you a place to stay.
The Final Words
Even with the rain, silt, and long flights, this was still a great
trip. Given the chance to do it again or pick Door Number 2, I'd do it
again.
Epilogue - photos can be viewed at
http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/underwater/index.htm. The ones marked
new are from this trip.
Alan Street - 26 Jun 2004 14:27 GMT
Nice report and great information.
Thanks, Dan.
Alan
> Trip Dates 2004-06-05 - 2004-06-20
>
[quoted text clipped - 109 lines]
> http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/underwater/index.htm. The ones marked
> new are from this trip.
Joe English - 26 Jun 2004 15:45 GMT
> Trip Dates 2004-06-05 - 2004-06-20
>
[quoted text clipped - 109 lines]
> http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/underwater/index.htm. The ones marked
> new are from this trip.
Breat pics, Dan!
Daniel Kessler - 26 Jun 2004 16:17 GMT
it would have been nice if you had informed us where you dived. I assume
the Agressor trip was probably cruising the area between Viti Levu and Vuana
Levu, but not necessarily what is called "Bligh Water," named after Capt'n
Bligh of Mutiny on the Bounty fame. It could also be that they cruised
southwards towars the Astrolab Lagoon. The guy who owns, or did own the
Siri ne wa used to cruise down there but got the natives very angry with him
since they felt they "owned" the outer reefs and wanted to be paid
handsomely for allowing divers to go around there. I'm speaking of the area
heading towards Kedavu, that cluster of islands that lie to the South that
can be reached with a short flight out of Suva.
So where were you diving or did you pay attention?
> > Trip Dates 2004-06-05 - 2004-06-20
> >
[quoted text clipped - 111 lines]
>
> Breat pics, Dan!
mtbchip - 26 Jun 2004 18:01 GMT
>> Epilogue - photos can be viewed at
>> http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/underwater/index.htm. The ones marked
>> new are from this trip.
VERY nice pics............above the water may not have been all that great,
but underwater is another story.
Thanks for sharing!
Mtbchip
Dan Bracuk - 26 Jun 2004 22:25 GMT
Forgot to mention the shark feeding dives.
There was a large cranny at about 65 ft. All 10 guests plus the
photo/video pro were able to fit, and it was like having a little
theatre. Then the divemaster would bring out the fish. On the first
dive, the fish hunks were tied to pieces of string. The divemaster
would secure one end to the reef, about 5 feet below us, and let the
fish go. The theory was that the shark would grab the fish, get to the
end of the rope, and start thrashing about. That actually happened a
couple of time. Most of the time there would be a frenzy of red bass
attacking the fish. Then, at the end, some very brave butterflyfish
would clean up.
The second shark dive was similar, the difference was that there was
no rope on the fish hunks. The divemaster, who was much braver than
I'll ever be, was simply pulling the fish hunks out and letting them
go. That wasn't the brave part. The brave part was that there was a
huge grouper there, and the dm was trying to ensure that he got some
fish. He didn't, too slow. However, I've seen enough feeding frenzies
to not trust those red bass at all. In fact. I'd also be leery of the
grouper. However, this guy does this every week and he appeared to
have the correct number of appendages.
On the second shark dive, a shark was actually able to get the piece
of fish and swim away. About a dozen red bass and two or three other
sharks started chasing him. It was pretty funny.
Jer - 27 Jun 2004 04:44 GMT
> Forgot to mention the shark feeding dives.
[....]
Yes, dance little shark
Dance on my strings
Dance little puppy
My amusement it brings.

Signature
jer email reply - I am not a 'ten'
"All that we do is touched with ocean, yet we remain on the shore of
what we know." -- Richard Wilbur
Daniel Kessler - 27 Jun 2004 15:00 GMT
> Forgot to mention the shark feeding dives.
and you forgot to tell us where in Fiji you were diving? The curious want
to know.
bullshark - 27 Jun 2004 15:51 GMT
>Forgot to mention the shark feeding dives.
>
>There was a large cranny at about 65 ft. All 10 guests plus the
Was that Nagali Pass? You might have a different name but the
huge deep channel full of screaming current that gets you to
the bleachers is unmistakable, as is the exit from the viewing
area, which takes you to about 20 feet before dumping out into
the lagoon.
Bula,
bullshark
Dan Bracuk - 28 Jun 2004 01:50 GMT
bullshark <bullshark@scubadiving.com> wrote in message
> Was that Nagali Pass?
yes
bullshark - 28 Jun 2004 12:28 GMT
>bullshark <bullshark@scubadiving.com> wrote in message
>> Was that Nagali Pass?
>
>yes
That was a fun dive. We did it first without feeding and I think
there were just as many sharks. They just endlessly come up the
current to the bleachers and peel off.
Those were snappers hogging all the bait. I think that's what you
meant to say. Anyway, wasn't that big grouper a character?
I thought it odd that the sharks ignore all the snapper while
trying to get the chum. I even saw them push snapper out of the way
with their snouts...very odd to say the least.
Did you go see the Leaf Scorpion fish in the lettuce coral
afterwards? I thought they were among the most unusual fish
we saw in Fiji.
safe diving,
bullshark
Dan Bracuk - 30 Jun 2004 19:44 GMT
bullshark <bullshark@scubadiving.com> wrote in message
> Those were snappers hogging all the bait. I think that's what you
> meant to say. Anyway, wasn't that big grouper a character?
During the briefing, the dm said they were vampire wrasses. After the
dive another diver and I looked it up in the book and concluded that
they were red bass.
I am sure it is a fish.
Dan Bracuk - 01 Jul 2004 01:10 GMT
bracuk@axxent.ca (Dan Bracuk) pounded away at his keyboard resulting
in:
:During the briefing, the dm said they were vampire wrasses. After the
:dive another diver and I looked it up in the book and concluded that
:they were red bass.
:
:I am sure it is a fish.
It's the one in this photo that is not a shark.
http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/underwater/Shark.htm
You guys figure it out.
Dan Bracuk
If at first you don't succeed, you run the risk of failure.
The Best of rec.scuba http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/RecScuba/
Richard Miller - 27 Jun 2004 00:05 GMT
did you dive the Somosomo straits..great white wall?
Richard
BrianM - 27 Jun 2004 02:36 GMT
> Trip Dates 2004-06-05 - 2004-06-20
>
[quoted text clipped - 106 lines]
> http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/underwater/index.htm. The ones marked
> new are from this trip.
nice photos - appreciated
Brian
http://linuxguide.co.nz
Randy Buckner - 27 Jun 2004 05:34 GMT
> Trip Dates 2004-06-05 - 2004-06-20
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> basic itinerary, fly to Fiji, stay at Woidroka Bay, sail on Aggressor,
> go home. Some of the details are different.
Love Fiji. Our group split between the Sere-Ni-Wa and the Nai'a, we being
on the latter. I loved the Nai'a. Rob and Cat are quite the pair. E6 had
to be my favorite site -- incredible diving. I'm looking forward to a
return in 2005.
How was the shape of the soft coral?
Dan Bracuk - 27 Jun 2004 13:35 GMT
"Randy Buckner" <Randybuckner@att.net> pounded away at his keyboard
resulting in:
:How was the shape of the soft coral?
What was there was fine. Didn't seem to be as much as there was on my
first trip though.
Dan Bracuk
If at first you don't succeed, you run the risk of failure.
The Best of rec.scuba http://www.pathcom.com/~bracuk/RecScuba/
bullshark - 27 Jun 2004 18:34 GMT
>Love Fiji. Our group split between the Sere-Ni-Wa and the Nai'a, we being
>on the latter. I loved the Nai'a. Rob and Cat are quite the pair. E6 had
>to be my favorite site -- incredible diving. I'm looking forward to a
>return in 2005.
They are not there anymore. It seems that they wanted a child and
had the courtesy to move that nonsense to shore. Currently the Host and
Hostess are Josh and Liz. Josh has an encyclopedic knowledge of pacific
fishes (and a marine biology degree) and is hands down the best videographer
I have ever personally seen/met. Liz is very personable, helpful and bright.
He's ozie, and she's brit.
They have only been there since October and for that time are pretty good,
but make no mistake, they are NOT "Rob and Cat". For those not familiar,
Rob and Cat practically invented Fiji liveaboard diving, they named and
discovered many of the dive sites. Even the dive guide books use the names
that Rob and Cat gave. Naia diving is unlike any liveaboard I've experienced
both above and on the water.
>How was the shape of the soft coral?
The shape of the soft coral, as you know, is roughly "cauliflower".
It was probably in better condition when you were last there. I can
tell you that "E-6" is a wasteland on top. Wakaya is dead too, though
the fishlife remains intense and there be Mantas there.
safe diving,
bullshark
Randy Buckner - 28 Jun 2004 16:22 GMT
> >Love Fiji. Our group split between the Sere-Ni-Wa and the Nai'a, we being
> >on the latter. I loved the Nai'a. Rob and Cat are quite the pair. E6 had
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> bullshark
Wow, I hate to hear that about E-6, and about Rob and Cat. They are good
people. The boat won't seem the same.
bullshark - 27 Jun 2004 15:48 GMT
>The Travel
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>the afternoon.
>Money well spent in my opinion. We had planned to find
We did the same thing and would do it again.
>Woidroka Bay Resort
>
> So, if you are going to Fiji, stay somewhere else.
We stayed at the Sheraton Royal Denarau; highly recommended. Service
and accommodation were *Superb*. The grounds are beautiful and if the
staff was any more "South Pacific", Disney would put a ticket booth
out front (the food was just OK). This was just for a couple of days
before the boat left.
>Fiji Aggressor II
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>dining room were sufficient. The dive was a little small, but not too
>crowded.
We dove the Naia. It's enormous and comfortable. 15 crew for 18 divers.
You never mess with your gear except to put it on. Nitrox and "no rules"
diving. Kava every night if want it. Singing crew whether you like it
or not.
>This meant that at the end of the dive, there was no anchor line to use as
>a reference point, you had to find the boat.
All diving on the Naia is from fast, stable roomy skiffs. You dive whatever
you like, as long as you like, and they pick you up. In a word: great stuff.
>The Diving
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>was still pretty good though. The water temperature ranged from 77 -
>79 F.
Sorry to hear you had bad weather. We had zero rain, no wind and
calm seas the whole 10 days we were out. The biggest waves might have
been two feet. We were there May 10-24.
Water temp was 82. This chart shows it dropping really fast
in May/June: http://www.naia.com.fj/research/water.html
>For those who have never dove the Indo Pacific area, it is remarkably
>different than the Caribbean.
We hadn't, and yes it is.
>The fish population is totally different,
Kind of, but they're still the same. Groupers, Wrasses, Angels,
Jacks, etc...but man oh man, they've got some crazy paint.
>and the soft corals are much more colourful.
Yes they are. While very fancy for a few dives, they tend to
be less so as time wears on. Where hard corals are heathy, I have
never seen their like in the Caribbean; unbelievable density and
variety.
>The departure tax may or may not be included in the cost of your plane
>tickets. Ours were.
I think that's standard for Air Pacific.
>Even with the rain, silt, and long flights, this was still a great
>trip. Given the chance to do it again or pick Door Number 2, I'd do it
>again.
My advice is to do it now, before it's gone. Diving Bligh waters
for ten days we saw some beautiful spots. We also saw some stuff
that was in terrible shape. Famous sites like "E-6" are a mess.
I don't think it's going to last. Sell the kids and go now, while
it's still worth doing.
Bula,
bullshark